The procedures in paper pattern grading

By grading a well-known technique in the apparel manufacturing industry. This technique is to increase or decrease a piece of a size. Begin one size so that all content maintains its original shape. This classification network of the block mode is also the basic network of components developed from the block model.

Assign label clothing styles involves many techniques, but they all have a common principle: the basic level.

We can divide these rating systems into the following two broad systems:

• Track translation system or two-dimensional level.
• Preliminary rating system or three-dimensional rating.

Two-dimensional system:
Two-dimensional sorting systems can only sort patterns by perimeter and height. Therefore, their application is limited to loss or semi-covered garments because it keeps standard size blanks throughout the entire size range. This system is most suitable for very loose clothing (such as shirts or T-shirts). With a limited range (such as 4-6-8-10-12-14), and it may be possible to use a two-dimensional system to classify them.

Three-dimensional system:
This system not only increases the size of the pattern but also increases or decreases conceal the following areas:

• Bust to shoulder
• Hip to waist
• Elbow to wrist

Three-dimensional grading is the best system. Three-dimensional grading should use as much as possible. By grading tight or tight clothing and clothing with sizes expanded from 8 to 18. The most important area of clothing is the amount of restraint from the bust to the shoulders. Using a three-dimensional classification system requires a good understanding of pattern cutting.

Types of clothing: There are two major categories, they are:

• Tight or tight clothing.
• Loose or semi-covered clothes.

The tighter the garment, the more important it is to choose a sophisticated garment classification system. That matches the undressing of the garment. If the fit of the clothes is looser, the value of adjusting the clothes suppression will reduce. So it is more recommended to use a two-dimensional system.

Several sizes: This may depend on whether the clothes are tight or loose. But refers to the situation that the company or company only provides a few sizes. The complexity of the classification system, and so on.

Fabric type: To classify, we can divide special fabrics into two conventional types:

• With fabric shrinkage
• Fabric doesn’t shrink

Elastic fabrics are more adjustable and can conform to the contours or contours of the body, so they can use. An inelastic piece of cloth has the opposite effect and must control and balanced throughout the size range.

Classification technology:

• Draft or multi-size (nested) level.
• A single-size track or slope.

Draft level: they use this term when the pattern returns to its original block shape. Or when increments apply to the actual pattern draft. This causes the entire size range to overlap with each other and is described by the terms “nested” or “tracking.” Select or track the various parts of the pattern of each size on the card. The draft level can be two-dimensional or three-dimensional. Three-dimensional slope considered being the determination method of the applied slope increment.

The slope of the track: This term will be used when the slope increment applies to each segment of the pattern. By moving the segments of the basic pattern together with the preset track. Make the pattern piece by piece to change its size. The system is two-dimensional, but it is difficult to adapt to a three-dimensional system.

The following are the steps for manual authentication:

• Prepare the specification
• Qualifications of the model
• Check the scale size of the pattern
• Complete the pattern.

The tools required for classification are:

• Table
• Parallel rules
• Puncher
• Pencil
• Proportion Divisor
• French curve
• Armhole curve
• Tailor’s Square
• Grooving machine
• Results rules
• Tape measure
• Colored pencils or pens

Size range-The size system is a predetermined size range, the maximum difference in circumference between each size. The size change is plus or minus 2 cm, so the logical size range will be 4 cm. An interval of less than 4 cm will cause the most used size in this range.

Size table: Two types of size tables are used.

• Body size: This type of chart provides the body size of each size. These sizes the basis for constructing patterns as needed.
• Clothing size: This chart provides detailed information about the finished size. The specifications of each size and used for pattern classification. Size is combine measurements, and a symbol which is a common code between clothing manufacturers and consumers represents each combination.

“X” and “Y” axis: The x-axis of the body and the y-axis of the body and skirt. It will be a line parallel to the center of the back of the center of the front. This is always the case. If the straight y-axis is a line parallel to the large circle line (for example, bust, waist, or hip).

Gerber Accumark Machine

The different qualifications that are still in use are manual. Machine qualifications and computer qualifications that are still in use. The practice of clothing classification involves the effective production of accurate patterns. For this reason, it should always follow some basic rules. There are no hard and fast rules on how to generate the scale pattern set. The choice of the working method also depends on the accuracy and convenience of each person.

Gerber accumark compatible Plotter 72 inch

Note:
The graded pattern must include separate sizes transferred to cardboard for sewing references.

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