Gerber AccuMark for Fashion and Design

Gerber AccuMark is a software solution that is widely used in the fashion and design industry for pattern making, grading, and marker making. It is a powerful tool that helps designers and manufacturers to create digital patterns, visualize fabrics, and optimize material usage.

AccuMark offers a range of features that make it an indispensable tool for fashion and design professionals. For instance, it allows designers to create patterns and designs using various tools such as digital sketching, image import, and CAD tools. The software also enables designers to grade patterns quickly and accurately, thus reducing the time required to create size ranges. In addition, AccuMark allows designers to create markers automatically, optimizing the use of fabric and reducing wastage. This feature is particularly important for manufacturers who need to control costs and minimize production time.

Also Read: The Proccess of Accumark Pattern and Design

Overall, Gerber AccuMark is an essential tool for any fashion and design professional looking to streamline their design and production process, reduce costs, and increase efficiency. Its powerful features make it a must-have tool for anyone working in the industry.

How do accumark work for fashion and design?

Gerber AccuMark is a software solution that is specifically designed for fashion and design professionals. It works by providing a comprehensive set of tools and features that allow designers to create digital patterns, visualize fabrics, and optimize material usage.

Here's a brief overview of how AccuMark works:

• Pattern Creation: AccuMark allows designers to create patterns using various tools such as digital sketching, image import, and CAD tools. Once a pattern is created, it can be saved in a digital format for easy storage and retrieval.
• Grading: AccuMark allows designers to grade patterns quickly and accurately. The software can automatically create size ranges, reducing the time required to create size variations.
• Marker Making: AccuMark can create markers automatically, optimizing the use of fabric and reducing wastage. This feature is particularly important for manufacturers who need to control costs and minimize production time.
• Fabric Visualization: AccuMark includes a feature called 3D simulation that allows designers to visualize how a fabric will look on a garment. This feature can help designers make informed decisions about fabric selection and pattern placement.
• Collaboration: AccuMark enables designers to collaborate with other team members and stakeholders in real-time, regardless of their location. This feature makes it easy to share designs and get feedback from others, speeding up the design process.

Overall, AccuMark is a powerful tool that helps fashion and design professionals streamline their design and production process, reduce costs, and increase efficiency.

Training manuals Accumark V8 Pattern Design, Grading and Marking

Accumark Pattern Creation

AccuMark is a comprehensive software solution used in the fashion and design industry for pattern making, grading, and marker making. Pattern creation is one of the key features of AccuMark, and the software provides various tools and features to help designers create digital patterns quickly and accurately.

Here's a brief overview of the pattern creation process in AccuMark:

• Input Data: The first step in pattern creation is to input data such as body measurements, fabric type, and style preferences.This data can be entered manually or imported from a pre-existing database.
• Digital Sketching: AccuMark provides tools for designers to sketch out their designs digitally. This allows for precise and accurate pattern creation and gives designers the flexibility to experiment with different designs and styles.
• Pattern Editing: Once the initial design is sketched out, the pattern can be edited and modified as needed. AccuMark provides a range of editing tools that allow designers to make changes quickly and easily.
• Grading: Grading is the process of creating different sizes for a pattern. AccuMark allows designers to grade patterns quickly and accurately, saving time and reducing errors.
• Testing: Once the pattern is created, it can be tested and adjusted as needed. AccuMark includes simulation tools that allow designers to visualize the pattern on a 3D model or mannequin, making it easier to spot any issues or areas that need improvement.
• Finalizing: Once the pattern is finalized and tested, it can be saved in a digital format and used for production. AccuMark can also generate technical specifications and other production-related documents, streamlining the production process.

Overall, AccuMark provides a range of tools and features that make pattern creation faster and more accurate. It is an essential tool for any fashion and design professional looking to create high-quality digital patterns.

Patternmaking and Grading Using Gerber's AccuMark Pattern Design Software

Accumark Pattern Grading

Pattern grading is the process of creating different sizes for a pattern. It's a crucial step in the pattern making process, and Gerber AccuMark provides a range of tools and features that allow designers to grade patterns quickly and accurately.

Here's a brief overview of the pattern grading process in AccuMark:

• Selecting the Base Size: The first step in pattern grading is to select the base size for the pattern. The base size is typically the size that the pattern was initially created in.
• Setting the Grade Rules: AccuMark allows designers to set up grade rules for each size. Grade rules define how much to increase or decrease the pattern measurements to create each size.
• Grading: Once the grade rules are set up, the pattern can be graded automatically. AccuMark can create size ranges quickly and accurately, reducing the time required to create size variations.
• Reviewing and Adjusting: After the pattern is graded, it's essential to review the results and adjust as needed. AccuMark includes simulation tools that allow designers to visualize the pattern on a 3D model or mannequin, making it easier to spot any issues or areas that need improvement.
• Finalizing: Once the grading is finalized and tested, the pattern can be saved in a digital format and used for production. AccuMark can also generate technical specifications and other production-related documents, streamlining the production process.

Gerber Digitizer Accumark 66X48

Overall, AccuMark provides a range of powerful tools and features that make pattern grading faster and more accurate. It's an essential tool for any fashion and design professional looking to create high-quality digital patterns in different sizes.

Marker Making

Marker making is the process of laying out pattern pieces on a large sheet of fabric in order to optimize fabric usage and minimize waste. Gerber AccuMark provides a range of tools and features that allow designers to create markers quickly and accurately.

Here's a brief overview of the marker making process in AccuMark:

• Pattern Preparation: The first step in marker making is to prepare the pattern pieces. AccuMark allows designers to import patterns created in the software or from other sources.
• Marker Planning: Once the patterns are imported, AccuMark allows designers to plan the marker layout. The software provides tools to manually or automatically arrange the pattern pieces on a virtual fabric sheet, taking into account factors such as fabric width, pattern size, and shape.
• Marker Making: Once the marker layout is planned, AccuMark can automatically create the marker. The software optimizes the layout of the pattern pieces to minimize fabric waste and ensure that each piece is placed on the fabric in the most efficient way possible.
• Reviewing and Adjusting: After the marker is created, it's essential to review the results and make adjustments as needed. AccuMark includes simulation tools that allow designers to visualize the marker on a 3D model or mannequin, making it easier to spot any issues or areas that need improvement.
• Finalizing: Once the marker is finalized and tested, it can be saved in a digital format and used for production. AccuMark can also generate technical specifications and other production-related documents, streamlining the production process.

Overall, AccuMark provides a range of powerful tools and features that make marker making faster and more accurate. It's an essential tool for any fashion and design professional looking to optimize fabric usage and reduce waste in the production process.

Creating a Person Basic Pattern for Dress Making

Developing garments involves different processes. Fit is the most important factor in the absolute acceptance or rejection of a garment. The fit should be original through subtleties in the pattern. Provides fullness where appropriate, accommodating body bulges in a flattering way. A good custom fit depends on drawing a pattern that incorporates the various shapes and proportions of the individual client. As the Industrial Revolution began, standardized patterns were critical to the success of ready-to-wear.

Plate making is an art. The art of manipulating and shaping a flat cloth to fit one or more curves of the human body. Pattern making is a bridge function between idea and manufacture. Sketches can turn into garments by interpreting the designed patterns as garment components.

The pattern is flat, while the body is not. The body of a person includes height, width, and depth. In this more or less cylindrical frame, there are a series of minor curves and bulges. Which relates to the patternmaker. We find darts in all pattern making. They turned the flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape that matched the bumps on the body.

Garments Manufacturing Books and Machines

Patternmakers create patterns from flat sketches or 2D fashion illustrations with measurements. Basic patterns are the basis for pattern making, assembly, and design. The primary pattern is the setting up position for a flat pattern layout. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort.

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Pattern creation method:

Pattern making involves three methods:

• Drawing
• Draping
• Flat paper pattern

Drafting:
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or precise measurements of the shape of a person, clothing, or body. The measurements for bust, waist, hips, etc. The loose allowance is marked on the paper and construction. We draw lines to complete the pattern. Drawings are used to create basic, basic, or design patterns.

Drape: It involves draping a piece of two-dimensional fabric around a shape. Making it conform to its shape and creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. It transferred this muslin to paper for the final pattern. Increases the convenience of movement and makes the garment comfortable to wear. The benefit of draping is that the designer can see the overall effect of the finished garment design. On the body shape before the garment is cut and sewn. However, it is too lavish and time-consuming than flat pattern making.

Creation of the flat style:
To develop a basic pattern that fits a person or body type, a sloper is adjusted. Sloper is the starting point for a flat pattern design. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort. We use five basic pattern pieces for womenswear. They feature a cinched front and rear pleated bodice. A basic neckline, one sleeve, and a fitted front and pleated back skirt. However, women’s styles often fluctuate as fashions change. They then manipulated these basic slopes to create fashion.

The basic sloper has no seam allowance and can manipulate into a variety of styles. It has no design interest, only the construction lines marked. The basic structure of the slider should be such that it is easy to enter settings. For a good pattern, accurate measurements are paramount.
We use the flat patterning method in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate.

Pattern making in today’s generations:
Today, making patterns using a computer has become a simple job. Today, there are different software on the market to meet the needs of manufacturers. The different software used are Gerber, Tukatech, Lectra, OptiTex, etc. This software makes the pattern master’s job easier. They make the pattern-making process cheaper and less time-consuming.

Pattern-making software allows you to enter measurements and draw patterns. The software draws patterns tailored to your measurements, eliminating a lot of trial and error in the sewing room.

Use this software to create patterns from 3D shapes in just a few steps. We collected individual measurements from 3D body scanners. It employed the dimensions to make a virtual 3D model of the human being's body. 3D to 2D software allows the user to define the surface of the garment for the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application unfolds and generates a flat 2D pattern in .dxf format.

Garment Pattern Making: Production Pattern and Grading

Ang production pattern ay mga pattern na naglalaman ng ibat-ibang sizes, o liit at laki ng padron. Itoy pinaliliit o pinalalaki ayon sa ibat-ibang sukat o sizes. Halimbawa ang spec sizing ay S,M,L ang S ay ang maliit, ang M ang Gitna, at ang L ay ang pinakamalaki.

Halimbawa:

Design is Simple dress shirt Men's Double fold front placket.

FRONT SHIRT

PRODUCTION SPECS

BACK SHIRT

Pattern Parts;

1. Front Cut 2
2. Back Cut 1
3. Back yoke cut 2
4. Sleeve Cut 2
5. Sleeve cuff cut 2
6. Sleeve placket cut 2
7. Collar cut 2
8. Collar band cut 2
9. Front Pocket cut 1

Fusible (Patigas) Interlining

1. Front placket cut 2
2. Collar cut 2
3. collar band cut 2
4. Cuff cut 2

Sample Marker Size M

GRADING DIRECTIONS

X = Haba o Horizontal direction

Y = Width o Verical directions

-Center Back Lenght-Ang haba ay S=29, M=29.5, L=30 ang grading nito ay 0.5inch plus and minus. (-+.5)
-Kung ang pattern ay may putol (Halimbawa sa waistline may putol)ito ay -+0.25 sa taas at -+0.25 sa baba.
-Across Shoulder=S=17.75, M=18.5, L=19.25 ang grading nito ay -+0.75inch. o (-+0.375) Hati sa dalawa.
-Bust o chest ay S=38, M=41, L=44 ang grading nito 3inch. ay -+0.75inch. (-+0.75) Hati sa apat.
-Waist line S=28, M=40, L=42 ang grading nito ay 3inch. -+0.75inch. (-+0.75) Hati sa apat.
-Bottom Sweep ay S=37.5, M=40.5, L=43.5 ang grading nito ay 3inch 0.75inch. (0.75) Hati sa apat.
-Sleeve Width at Armhole ay S=15.75, M=16.5, L=17.25 ang grading nito ay 0.75inch. (0.375) Hati sa dalawa.
-Sleeve Length at CB ay S=32, M=33, L=34 ang grading nito ay -+1. Kung ang specs ng haba ay mula center back bale ibabawas yong grading sa acrross shoulder. Kaya magiging -+0.625.
-Sleeve Length at Shoulder ay S=24, M=24.625, L=25.25 ang grading nito ay -+.0625
-Sleeve Cuff opening ay S=8.25, M=8.625, L=9.00 ang grading nito ay -+0.375 kung hindi folded, 0.1875 (kung folded)
-Collar height at CB ay S=1.875, M=1.875, L=1.875 0 grading wala po.
-Collar Point ay S=3.125, M=3.125, L=3.125 wala pong Grading.
-Collar Spread ay S=4.5, M=4.5, L=4.5 wala pong Grading.
-Collar band height ay S=1.25, M=1.25, L=1.25 wala pong Grading.

Kung natapos mo itong basahin marahil may nakita kang mali, paki comments na lang po para ma update o maipaliwag kung bakit.

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How to Make Great Patterns for Easy Sewing

Creating sewing patterns is a great way to save money and time in the dressing room. You can use specific sizes to compose your custom corset. This will allow you to sew tops or dresses and make sure they fit. To make the pattern easier, please select a project that suits you and track it to make the pattern.

Take measurements. To create an accurate pattern that suits you. You will need to use a soft tape measure and record the following measurements:

• Women’s bust: Wrap the tape around the entire bust.
• Waist: Measure the narrowest part of the natural waist.
• Dress height: Stand upright on the wall and ask someone. Measure from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet.
• Men’s shirt collar: Wrap tape around the neck where the shirt collar is located.
• Hips: Wrap tape around the widest part of the hips.
• Length and width of the back measure the length from the neck to the waist. Measure the width along the widest part of the back.
• Chest in men’s or women’s clothing: Measure the widest part of the chest above the chest.
• Sleeve length: Hold the tape from shoulder to arm, as long as it fits the sleeve.
• Shoulder length: The distance from the neck to the edge of the shoulder.
• Upper arm width: Wrap the tape measure around the thickest part of the armpit near the armpit.

Draw the design sketch of the garment you want to make. Decide whether to make skirts, pants, or tops, and whether to have sleeves. Draw a rough design that comes to be visible in the garment. This will help you determine how to divide the garment into parts. So you know how many individual patterns you need to make.

• For example, if you want to make casual clothes. You may need a front body, a back body, and a belt pattern on the sleeve.

Place a sheet of flat paper and trace the length of the pattern. Place a large pattern or brown postcard paper on a flat work surface. Make sure that one side of the paper is straight. Place a ruler 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of the paper. Measure from that point down until the length of the clothes you want.

• For example, if you are 6 feet (1.8 cm) tall. Make your skirt 37 inches (94 cm) long to match the mini dress. Make the skirt 40 inches (101.6 cm) long and a knee dress, or 61 inches (154.9 cm).
• The straight edge of the paper will become the front center (CF) of the pattern. Mark your length along this edge.

Tip: To determine how long to wear a piece of clothing. Check the height measurement and determine how much of the clothing to cover. If you are making a shirt or top. Please check the length of your back and where you want the shirt to fall with your waist.

Draw horizontal lines to mark the shoulders, bust, waist, and hips. Place a ruler so it forms a 90-degree angle on top of the line drawing for the center front line. Draw this top horizontal line, this will be your shoulder line. Lower the ruler to make the bust level. Move the ruler down again to draw a horizontal waist. The bottom of the shirt is the hip line.

• Check your measurements to decide where to put the ruler on the shoulder path, bust position, waistline, and hip position.

Trace a line joining the size of the bust or chest, waist, and hips. Check your measurement and point out a point 1/4 of the measurement on the bustline. The same is true for the waist and hips. Next, use a pencil and a curved ruler. Draw a line to connect the points on the bust or chest line, waistline, and hip line.

• For example, your bust size is 40 inches (100 cm), divide it by 4 to get 10 inches (25 cm). Mark 10 inches (25 cm) from the edge of the bustline.
• This will make 1 edge of the central part of the pattern.

Draw the neckline and shoulders. Use a curved ruler to draw the cleavage from the top of the shoulder line to the centerline of the front. You can set the neckline as low or high according to your preference. Remember, the back neckline is higher than the front neckline. Leave room for the armholes and draw a curve from the shoulder down above the bustline.

• To make your shoulders sit down, tilt your shoulders downward.

Add seam allowance throughout the curved ends of the work. Use the ruler or the seam allowance ruler to trace a path parallel to the outline of the pattern. Add 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of margin.

• You can add 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of margin along the bottom line. This can make the hem of the clothes easier.
• For example, if your pattern block is 61 inches (154.9 cm) long. Make the seam allowance line 61 1⁄2 inch (156.2 cm) long.

If you want the dress or shirt to have sleeves, create a sleeve pattern. View your measurements of sleeve length and upper arm width and determine the style of clothing sleeves you want. Draw the sleeve pattern on the crease.

• For example, the length of the sleeve can be 5 inches (13 cm) long. You will use a 12-inch (30 cm) arm width measurement to determine the width of the sleeve.

Cut and paste the pattern fragments. Place another piece of pattern paper under the pattern you are tracking. Nail the paper together, use scissors to cut two layers along the seam allowance line. The bottom layer will become the back pattern. Be careful not to cut the curved neckline so you can adjust the front and back parts to your liking.

• For example, you want to cut the front neckline below and then keep the back neckline high.
• Mark each pattern you make so you can track them.

Tip: The number of patterns you need to make depends on the clothing you make. For example, if you want to make a simple shirt, you may only need 4 pattern pieces. Front 1, back 1, sleeve 2, neck collar 1. A wide flared skirt may require 6 identical parts, connected to a waist part.

Pattern Making Book

Make sure all seams have an allowance for sewing. Seams allowance required different allowances before fabric cutting.

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Garment Pattern Making: Approval sample and adding shrinkage's

Hello, the Philippines!

The topic today is sample pattern, specifications grading and applying shrinkages allowance to meet required measurements.

AP (after pressing)

BP (Before pressing)

Before the manufacturer accepts the job order, there is an initial task to agreed upon before the production start. The product cost: In order to find the labor and material cost, the pattern department will do an estimate of fabric and other accessories using the middle size of the entire specs. When they both agreed on the price, it's time to prepare the pattern to make a counter sample approval for the buyer approval before productions.

Final specs against manufacturer specs;

The specs are telling the pattern maker to add 1.16% for the pattern length and 1.04% for the width of the pattern.

This means every horizontal direction or length of the pattern is required to add 1.16% and for vertical direction required a 1.04% addition.

What the pattern maker will do?

The pattern maker will do the computation choosing a middle size as a sample size from the entire specifications. From given specs the sizing is 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14. The pattern department will choose the middle size for these specs which either 6 or 8. Most of the time the buyer will advise to choose for size 8. The buyer will provide finished specs.

The maker or the manufacturer will do the fabric shrinkages test to find the fabric shrinkage amount. Since the fabric is non-washed, they will cut an 18inch. x 18inch. sample fabric. Submerged the fabric in clean water for a certain amount of time then dry and press. Make sure to record the fabric measurements before and after pressing. The fabric will now be measured to get the actual shrinkage result that will be relayed to the pattern maker to add the amount of shrinkage to the pattern sample.

When the pattern is ready it will be submitted to the marker department for consumption approval. If the marker meets the targeted consumption it will go to the cutting section, to sample sewing, finishing then to quality section, packing and finally sending it for buyer sample approval.

So the pattern maker will use a size 8 specs which will add the shrinkage allowance of 1.16% for length and 1.04% for width.

Once the sample is approved the buyer may or may not require a production sample or sizes sample. When everything is OK a production pattern or graded pattern will be the final task of the patten department to be work out.

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