Creating a Person Basic Pattern for Dress Making

Developing garments involves different processes. Fit is the most important factor in the absolute acceptance or rejection of a garment. The fit should be original through subtleties in the pattern. Provides fullness where appropriate, accommodating body bulges in a flattering way. A good custom fit depends on drawing a pattern that incorporates the various shapes and proportions of the individual client. As the Industrial Revolution began, standardized patterns were critical to the success of ready-to-wear.

Plate making is an art. The art of manipulating and shaping a flat cloth to fit one or more curves of the human body. Pattern making is a bridge function between idea and manufacture. Sketches can turn into garments by interpreting the designed patterns as garment components.

The pattern is flat, while the body is not. The body of a person includes height, width, and depth. In this more or less cylindrical frame, there are a series of minor curves and bulges. Which relates to the patternmaker. We find darts in all pattern making. They turned the flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape that matched the bumps on the body.

Garments Manufacturing Books and Machines

Patternmakers create patterns from flat sketches or 2D fashion illustrations with measurements. Basic patterns are the basis for pattern making, assembly, and design. The primary pattern is the setting up position for a flat pattern layout. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort.

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Pattern creation method:

Pattern making involves three methods:

• Drawing
• Draping
• Flat paper pattern

Drafting:
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or precise measurements of the shape of a person, clothing, or body. The measurements for bust, waist, hips, etc. The loose allowance is marked on the paper and construction. We draw lines to complete the pattern. Drawings are used to create basic, basic, or design patterns.

Drape: It involves draping a piece of two-dimensional fabric around a shape. Making it conform to its shape and creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. It transferred this muslin to paper for the final pattern. Increases the convenience of movement and makes the garment comfortable to wear. The benefit of draping is that the designer can see the overall effect of the finished garment design. On the body shape before the garment is cut and sewn. However, it is too lavish and time-consuming than flat pattern making.

Creation of the flat style:
To develop a basic pattern that fits a person or body type, a sloper is adjusted. Sloper is the starting point for a flat pattern design. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort. We use five basic pattern pieces for womenswear. They feature a cinched front and rear pleated bodice. A basic neckline, one sleeve, and a fitted front and pleated back skirt. However, women’s styles often fluctuate as fashions change. They then manipulated these basic slopes to create fashion.

The basic sloper has no seam allowance and can manipulate into a variety of styles. It has no design interest, only the construction lines marked. The basic structure of the slider should be such that it is easy to enter settings. For a good pattern, accurate measurements are paramount.
We use the flat patterning method in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate.

Pattern making in today’s generations:
Today, making patterns using a computer has become a simple job. Today, there are different software on the market to meet the needs of manufacturers. The different software used are Gerber, Tukatech, Lectra, OptiTex, etc. This software makes the pattern master’s job easier. They make the pattern-making process cheaper and less time-consuming.

Pattern-making software allows you to enter measurements and draw patterns. The software draws patterns tailored to your measurements, eliminating a lot of trial and error in the sewing room.

Use this software to create patterns from 3D shapes in just a few steps. We collected individual measurements from 3D body scanners. It employed the dimensions to make a virtual 3D model of the human being's body. 3D to 2D software allows the user to define the surface of the garment for the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application unfolds and generates a flat 2D pattern in .dxf format.

Basic sewing information for a newbie

By learning a new hobby or trading is exciting. A popular craft skill is sewing. Not only can sewing be a useful skill, but it is also fun to learn and do. The word itself can have many meanings; from sewing skirts to designing and building your wardrobe. Many people think that sewing must be difficult to master. But to be honest, if you can look at needles and threading, you are likely to learn to sew. With the correct basic instructions and enough practice, almost anyone can learn to sew.

Now you have learned the basics of sewing as a hobby. You may wonder where to find the right course or instructions. A simple, popular way to learn to sew is to take a local course at a sewing machine or fabric shop. Many craft shops offer sewing courses from beginners to advanced levels. The cost of registering for a course is low, and sometimes you may get discounts on merchandise.

Another way to find a sewing course might be at your community college, which offers continuing education courses for adults. While learning new trades, you can meet new people who share your interests.

For most people, learning to sew and make useful household items is as a child of a mother, grandmother. Or other older members of the family. If your friends or family already know how to sew, please let them tell you where to start. They may provide you with a basic sewing course. They may be the person you call. You are stuck in a sewing project and cannot work the way the pattern should be.

As we live in a wonderful online world today. There is a lot of information on the Internet to learn how to sew. A simple search will bring you page after page of links to free and paid online sewing courses and tutorials. Don’t forget the most obvious sewing resource, books. Your local library has all the information you need to get started. Amazon.com can also provide you with old and new reference books about the art of sewing.

When you delve into the world of sewing, you notice that certain jargon is involved. Most handicrafts have their own language, and sewing is no exception. Once you understand mean certain words and phrases. Learning to read patterns and understand the sewing process will not be so difficult.

Your first sewing craft project should be a simple project. Which will take you step by step through learning one skill at a time. You can consider making a simple pillow for a sofa or bed. Or a skirt that is easy to sew for yourself or a friend. Many craft projects involve sewing, which is fun for you and also allows you to learn new sewing skills.

Many times, when we learn a new transaction, we are so excited about creation that we go out. Spend a lot of money to buy the largest and best gadgets and machines. However, in the case of sewing, this is unnecessary. All you need is a simple sewing machine and basic sewing supplies, such as patterns, fabric, tape measure, scissors, pins.

Remember, you have just started sewing, and you may find that this is not your favorite cup of tea. Once you know what you are doing, you will learn what you need. No need to be a top-notch sewing craftworker.

No matter how big your sewing goal is, you can learn to sew through practice. Sewing is not a difficult skill to perform, so go out and learn how. Think of all the wonderful things you can create with your own hands and a piece of cloth!

Photo by tata toto on Unsplash

Sewing Overview for Beginners

There are many advantages to learning to sew. It is relaxing, creative, and fun. Clothes can repair damages and breaks will save you money. Once you develop your sewing skills, you can do more work and do sewing projects for others.

So, what do beginners need to know before taking sewing? There are a few things to consider here.

Learn to sew
Learning to sew can seem daunting, especially if you have or never picked up a sewing needle. But no matter how much sewing experience you have, there are countless ways to start or continue your sewing education.

By taking courses is a quick way to learn the art of sewing and handicrafts. There may be a community college or community center that offers sewing courses in your area. The elementary class meets once a week, up to six weeks. It focuses on teaching basic terminology and skills to lay a solid foundation for you. If you are lucky, you can take one of these courses for free. But even if you have to pay a small fee, what you learn will be worth the money.

Books can also help you improve your sewing skills. If you never sewed before, then learning specific techniques from the book can be challenging. But books can teach you different techniques, important definitions, different sewing types. The range of fabrics to choose from, and so on.

Online video tutorials are another great learning tool. You will not only hear someone explain the technology, but you can also see the practical application of the technology. For sewing, being able to see what they do will differ.

Beginners choose a sewing machine
Whether you are a beginner, a novice, or a sewing professional, choosing a new sewing machine is very exciting. It’s hard not to succumb to the temptation to buy the most fashionable and feature-rich machine.

However, for novices, buying a skilled sewing machine is not the best idea. Instead, you need a machine that is easy to learn and easy to use.

Therefore, choose a basic and simple high-quality model.

After I had a sewing machine at home, I learned all about it. Read the cover of the user manual. Find information about your specific model online. Understand the name, function, and purpose of every part and part from the bobbin to the presser foot. The more you know about your sewing machine, the faster you will learn to use it.

Consider consumables
Sewing is a hobby that involves a lot of supplies and equipment. Knowing the supplies you need and the purpose of each tool is almost as important as knowing your sewing machine.

One of the first things to do is to assemble the sewing kit by hand. Yes, you plan to do most of the sewing work on the sewing machine. However, many things still need to be sewn by hand. In addition, whether you are enjoying a relaxing afternoon at home or enduring boring waiting in the doctor’s office. Hand sewing is a relaxing way to pass the time.

READ: Learning how to sew can enrich your life

So, what do you need for your handmade sewing kit? First, you need manual sewing needles of various shapes and sizes. The threader will also come in handy because trying to thread the needle without the needle is a frustrating job. To protect your fingers from needle stick injuries, also have one or two thimbles.

Other supplies should include in a manual sewing kit. Includes scissors, pins, fabric markers, seam openers, tape measures, and of course thread.
Sewing room

For many people, the sewing room is a relaxing paradise, where they can sew. However, having a sewing room has another purpose. You don’t want your supplies to be scattered in the house. You want a place to store all your supplies so that it organized and easy to find.

Do you have a special sewing room in your house? It can be a guest room that has never been used, a loft that has transformed into a living space. A storage room that can be cleaned (with windows).

If you cannot use a particular room for sewing, you can still request the use of a limited room corner. It can be a garage, basement, or home office.

For novices, entering the sewing world seems overwhelming. There are so many things to learn! But don’t learn everything at once, but focus on learning the basics. And believe that the more you do, the more you will learn.

Photo by Volha Flaxeco on Unsplash

Learning how to sew can enrich your life

Have you ever thought about learning to sew? Do you have friends or family members who know how to sew, do you want to learn too? By knowing the basics of sewing can help you get started. The first thing you need is a sewing machine or at least you can use a sewing machine.

You don’t own a sewing machine and you buy one within your budget; I suggest you buy your own. You may think that you don’t use a sewing machine often? But once you sew, it will surprise you by how often you use it.

If your budget is small, consider using a second-hand sewing machine provided by a local sewing machine retailer. The staff can help you find a machine that suits your sewing level and price range. For example, compared to buying a new machine at the same price. You can find a second-hand machine of better quality for $100.00.

Choose a basic item, without zippers, buttons, snaps, etc. The type of sewing pattern you choose should not possess too many details. Keep it simple so you don’t get frustrated at the end of the sewing project.

I recommend looking for great model companies available online. They will provide good tips for beginners on sewers and patterns to suit your abilities. You can even look for patterns that can make in just “one hour”.

In addition, choose patterns that require easy-to-use fabrics. The apron will be a good entry project and will play a role when you’re done.

Here are some model companies to help you get started.

• McCall sewing pattern
• Simple sewing pattern

Now you must choose your fabric. As I mentioned before, choose a simple pattern and your fabric should also match. The back of the sewing pattern will provide fabric suggestions for the type of project you are doing.

I recommend using fabrics like woven cotton or cotton blends, which are moderate and easy to use. Before you finish some projects, I will guide you away from knitting.

Note: Knitted fabrics are easy to stretch and are used to make T-shirts and casual pants. Okay, you own a sewing machine, patterns, and fabrics for your project.

These are the extras needed to complete the project.

• Color matching thread (buy excellent quality, it will not break when sewing)
• Sharp scissors (I emphasize sharpness)
• Tailor’s sewing belt (easy to find in sewing shops and fabric shops)
• Straight pins (buy the ones with outstanding quality and colored heads so that you can see them)
• Hand-stitched. (Optional, but better to own it)
• Any concepts you need for your project (you will find this shortlist on the back of the pattern)

When you learn to sew and improve your skills, find sewing book or two to help you master sewing techniques.

Here are some suggestions:

• A sewing book
• Sewing 101. A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing

I possess two books. They are worth buying. Both books found in any bookstore or online.

I recommend subscribing to “Threads Magazine”, these articles are very useful, and the information will never be out of date. Also, please consider looking for beginner sewing courses in your community. They set their business up for sewing courses to help you get started. Maybe a one-on-one experience is best for you, rather than going alone.

READ: Sewing Overview for Beginners

Now is the time to start your project. Open your pattern and read the instructions to assemble your project. Before cutting anything, take a moment to learn everything about the project. The instructions will tell you which parts need to cut and how to place the pattern part on the fabric.

Take it easy! Don’t worry, this is not a game. If you relax, you will get more fun and satisfaction from the completed sewing project. Hope this helps you to sew tasks.

Photo by Alexander Andrews on Unsplash

Basics of pattern creation

Create clothing involves different processes. Fit is the most important factor leading to the absolute acceptance or rejection of clothing. It should design the body with the original pattern, to keep the subtleties of the pattern. Provide fullness in the position and accommodate the uplift of the body. Good tailoring suitability depends on combining patterns of individual customers with different shapes and proportions. With the start of the industrial revolution, standardized patterns critical to the success of ready-made garments.

Pattern making is an art. The art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to fit one more curve of the human figure. Pattern making is the bridge function between design and production. We can transform a sketch into a garment through a pattern, explain the design in the shape of the garment component.

When the body is not flat, the pattern is flat. The body has height, width, and depth. In this cylindrical frame, there are many minor curves and protrusions, which interest the cartographer. Darts are the basis of all modes. They turned a flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape that matched the bumps on the body.

They make patterns from flat sketches with measured values or two-dimensional fashion illustrations. The basic pattern is the basis for creating, adjusting, and designing patterns. The basic pattern is the starting point of the graphic pattern design. This is a simple pattern that fits the body to provide movement and comfort.

Pattern creation method

It involved three methods in pattern creation:

• Drafting
• Drape
• Flat paper pattern

The drafting method:

It involves measurement results from a sizing system or precise measurement of people, clothing, or body shape. The measurement values of the chest, waist, buttocks. Distribute relief is all marked on paper, and they draw construction lines to complete the pattern. Drawing is used to create basic, basic, or design patterns.

Dangle:

It involves placing a two-dimensional fabric around a shape and adapting it to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. The muslin was transferred to paper and used as the final pattern. Added sports facilities to make clothes comfortable to wear. The advantage of drape is that the designer can see the overall effect of the finished clothes. The design on the shape of the human body before cutting and sewing the clothes. However, it is more expensive and time-consuming compared to creating flat patterns.

Manufacture flat patterns:

It involves developing a basic pattern that can adjust to fit the shape of the person or body. The slope is the starting point of the graphic design. This is a simple pattern that fits the body to provide movement and comfort. They used five basic patterns in women’s clothing. They include a fitted corset at the front, a pleated back body at the back. A basic neckline, sleeves, and a pleated skirt that fit the front and back. However, with frequent changes in fashion, women’s styles will change. They then manipulated these basic models to create fashion.

Basic swimsuits have no seam allowance, so you can manipulate various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines marked on it. The basic structure of the slope should be easy to input settings. For good pattern making, accurate measurement is essential.

They used the flat pattern method in the ready-to-wear market, because of its speed and accuracy.

Pattern Making in Today’s World

Nowadays, it has become very easy to use a computer to create patterns. Nowadays, a variety of software is available on the market to meet the needs of manufacturers. The different software used is Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech, Optitex, etc. The software facilitates the work of employers. They make the pattern creation process cheaper and more timesaving.

Pattern creation software allows you to input measurement values and design patterns. It tailors these software sketch styles for your measurements, thus eliminating many cutting trials and errors in the sewing room.

By using this software, you can make patterns from 3D shapes in just a few steps. We can get personal measurement values from the 3D body scanner. These measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual’s body. 3D to 2D software allows users to define the surface of clothes using a 3D human body model. After defining the surface of the clothes, the application will unfold and generate a flat 2D pattern in .dxf format.

Photo by 鮮花 李 on Unsplash

How to Make Great Patterns for Easy Sewing

Creating sewing patterns is a great way to save money and time in the dressing room. You can use specific sizes to compose your custom corset. This will allow you to sew tops or dresses and make sure they fit. To make the pattern easier, please select a project that suits you and track it to make the pattern.

Take measurements. To create an accurate pattern that suits you. You will need to use a soft tape measure and record the following measurements:

• Women’s bust: Wrap the tape around the entire bust.
• Waist: Measure the narrowest part of the natural waist.
• Dress height: Stand upright on the wall and ask someone. Measure from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet.
• Men’s shirt collar: Wrap tape around the neck where the shirt collar is located.
• Hips: Wrap tape around the widest part of the hips.
• Length and width of the back measure the length from the neck to the waist. Measure the width along the widest part of the back.
• Chest in men’s or women’s clothing: Measure the widest part of the chest above the chest.
• Sleeve length: Hold the tape from shoulder to arm, as long as it fits the sleeve.
• Shoulder length: The distance from the neck to the edge of the shoulder.
• Upper arm width: Wrap the tape measure around the thickest part of the armpit near the armpit.

Draw the design sketch of the garment you want to make. Decide whether to make skirts, pants, or tops, and whether to have sleeves. Draw a rough design that comes to be visible in the garment. This will help you determine how to divide the garment into parts. So you know how many individual patterns you need to make.

• For example, if you want to make casual clothes. You may need a front body, a back body, and a belt pattern on the sleeve.

Place a sheet of flat paper and trace the length of the pattern. Place a large pattern or brown postcard paper on a flat work surface. Make sure that one side of the paper is straight. Place a ruler 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of the paper. Measure from that point down until the length of the clothes you want.

• For example, if you are 6 feet (1.8 cm) tall. Make your skirt 37 inches (94 cm) long to match the mini dress. Make the skirt 40 inches (101.6 cm) long and a knee dress, or 61 inches (154.9 cm).
• The straight edge of the paper will become the front center (CF) of the pattern. Mark your length along this edge.

Tip: To determine how long to wear a piece of clothing. Check the height measurement and determine how much of the clothing to cover. If you are making a shirt or top. Please check the length of your back and where you want the shirt to fall with your waist.

Draw horizontal lines to mark the shoulders, bust, waist, and hips. Place a ruler so it forms a 90-degree angle on top of the line drawing for the center front line. Draw this top horizontal line, this will be your shoulder line. Lower the ruler to make the bust level. Move the ruler down again to draw a horizontal waist. The bottom of the shirt is the hip line.

• Check your measurements to decide where to put the ruler on the shoulder path, bust position, waistline, and hip position.

Trace a line joining the size of the bust or chest, waist, and hips. Check your measurement and point out a point 1/4 of the measurement on the bustline. The same is true for the waist and hips. Next, use a pencil and a curved ruler. Draw a line to connect the points on the bust or chest line, waistline, and hip line.

• For example, your bust size is 40 inches (100 cm), divide it by 4 to get 10 inches (25 cm). Mark 10 inches (25 cm) from the edge of the bustline.
• This will make 1 edge of the central part of the pattern.

Draw the neckline and shoulders. Use a curved ruler to draw the cleavage from the top of the shoulder line to the centerline of the front. You can set the neckline as low or high according to your preference. Remember, the back neckline is higher than the front neckline. Leave room for the armholes and draw a curve from the shoulder down above the bustline.

• To make your shoulders sit down, tilt your shoulders downward.

Add seam allowance throughout the curved ends of the work. Use the ruler or the seam allowance ruler to trace a path parallel to the outline of the pattern. Add 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of margin.

• You can add 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of margin along the bottom line. This can make the hem of the clothes easier.
• For example, if your pattern block is 61 inches (154.9 cm) long. Make the seam allowance line 61 1⁄2 inch (156.2 cm) long.

If you want the dress or shirt to have sleeves, create a sleeve pattern. View your measurements of sleeve length and upper arm width and determine the style of clothing sleeves you want. Draw the sleeve pattern on the crease.

• For example, the length of the sleeve can be 5 inches (13 cm) long. You will use a 12-inch (30 cm) arm width measurement to determine the width of the sleeve.

Cut and paste the pattern fragments. Place another piece of pattern paper under the pattern you are tracking. Nail the paper together, use scissors to cut two layers along the seam allowance line. The bottom layer will become the back pattern. Be careful not to cut the curved neckline so you can adjust the front and back parts to your liking.

• For example, you want to cut the front neckline below and then keep the back neckline high.
• Mark each pattern you make so you can track them.

Tip: The number of patterns you need to make depends on the clothing you make. For example, if you want to make a simple shirt, you may only need 4 pattern pieces. Front 1, back 1, sleeve 2, neck collar 1. A wide flared skirt may require 6 identical parts, connected to a waist part.

Pattern Making Book

Make sure all seams have an allowance for sewing. Seams allowance required different allowances before fabric cutting.

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Garment pattern making, grading, cutting, sewing

Marahil sa panahong ito ang paggawa na damit ay wala ng saysay sa siyudad dahil sa maunlad na teknolohiya. Sa ngayon ang paggawa ng damit ay computerized na di tulad noong araw na itoy manual lamang. Dahil po sa akoy may karanasan sa paggawa ng damit at padron, pagtahi, pag tabas, naisipan kung ibahagi ang aking konting nalalaman sa abot ng aking makakaya.

Dahil po sa ang gawaing ito ay matagal ko ng iniwan dahil sa akoy reterado na, sisikapin ko pong ibahagi ang kaunti kung nalalaman sa larangang ito.

Ang inaasahan kung tatangkilik ng sariling araling ito as sa probinsya na hindi pa gaanong abot ang advance na teknolohiya, tulad ng isang nayon sa probinsya. Kung ikaw ay may hilig sa paggawa ng damit panlalaki o pambabae marahil itoy para saiyo, ikaw man ay nakatira sa isang siyudad o sa isang nayon sa probinsiya.

Nauunawaan ko po ang pinagkaiba ng tailoring o dressmaking kaysa sa paggawa ng damit na maramihan katulad ng isang pabrika.

 by shankar s.

Tailoring o Dressmaking (Shop o Boutique) - Dito individual ang iyong paruyano, ang sukat ay ikaw ang kukuha sa iyong kustomer kasama na kung anong desinyo o style. May isang master cutter na tagagawa ng padron, magtatabas sa tela at magtatahi. Minsan ang mananahi siya na ang magtatapos hanggang mabuo ang damit pati na finishing.

by Provincial Archives of Alberta

Garment Production (Factory Process)- Dito mahirap ang gawain dahil lahat ng aspeto dapat naayon sa sukat at desinyo, Maramihan ang order dito kaya dapat nasa tamang tolerance kung may mali man.
Ang lokal factory ay maysariling taga desinyo ng damit, samantalang kung outsource ng kompanya ang order, ito ay may kasamang specs, tela,at accessoriya, original sample. Bago maaprove ang order kailangang magaya ng kumpaniya ang padalang sample at masunod ang boung quality ng paggawa. Kapag itoy natapos na kailangang ipadala sa mayari para sa kanilang commento o pagsangayon bago gumawa ng maramihan piraso.

Dahil sa factory maramihan ang order, nararapat lamang na marami silang mangagawa at departamento. Ito ay ang mga sumosunod:

Departamento ng Desinyo - tagagawa ng desinyo o idea ng damit at pagbibigay ng kailangang sukat o sizes.
Departamento ng quality - sila ang nag aaproved kung nasunod ang mga kinakailangan sa isang damit, Dito dalawa ang taga control ng quality, isa ang representante ng kompaniya at ang isa ay ang representante ng nagpapagawa. Kailangang maaprobahan ng pinal ang damit bago magumpisa ng maramihang sizes ayon sa ibinigay na specs ng mayari o kustomer.

Departamento ng Pattern making, marking, at cutting - Sila ang gagawa ng unang pattern para gawan ng sample para paaprobahan. Minsan maykasama ng pattern kaya final measurement na lang at pagdagdag ng shrinkage allowance sa pattern. Kung maaprove ang unang sample pweding humingi pa ang mayari ng sizes sample bago mag gawa ng maramihan damit na ibat ibang sizes.

Sa aking kumento: Para sa akin, parehong mabigat na pasanin anuman ang iyong tunay na kaalaman sa paggawa ng damit. Maging itoy sa Shop o sa pabrica. Subalit sa aking naging karanasan mas pipiliin ko ang maglingkod sa pabrika kaysa sa shop o botique. Sa shop limitado ang iyong kaalaman at mga benipesyo. Samantalang sa pabrika marami kang malalaman tungkol sa paggawa ng damit sa ibat ibang antas o departamento. May magandang benipisyo at sigurado ang iyong sahod.

Kung ikaw ang papipiliin saan ka kaya gustong lumugar sa gawaing ito?

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READ: Garment Pattern Making: Mga Gamit na Kakailanganin