Garment Pattern Making: Production Pattern and Grading

Ang production pattern ay mga pattern na naglalaman ng ibat-ibang sizes, o liit at laki ng padron. Itoy pinaliliit o pinalalaki ayon sa ibat-ibang sukat o sizes. Halimbawa ang spec sizing ay S,M,L ang S ay ang maliit, ang M ang Gitna, at ang L ay ang pinakamalaki.

Halimbawa:

Design is Simple dress shirt Men's Double fold front placket.

FRONT SHIRT

PRODUCTION SPECS

BACK SHIRT

Pattern Parts;

1. Front Cut 2
2. Back Cut 1
3. Back yoke cut 2
4. Sleeve Cut 2
5. Sleeve cuff cut 2
6. Sleeve placket cut 2
7. Collar cut 2
8. Collar band cut 2
9. Front Pocket cut 1

Fusible (Patigas) Interlining

1. Front placket cut 2
2. Collar cut 2
3. collar band cut 2
4. Cuff cut 2

Sample Marker Size M

GRADING DIRECTIONS

X = Haba o Horizontal direction

Y = Width o Verical directions

-Center Back Lenght-Ang haba ay S=29, M=29.5, L=30 ang grading nito ay 0.5inch plus and minus. (-+.5)
-Kung ang pattern ay may putol (Halimbawa sa waistline may putol)ito ay -+0.25 sa taas at -+0.25 sa baba.
-Across Shoulder=S=17.75, M=18.5, L=19.25 ang grading nito ay -+0.75inch. o (-+0.375) Hati sa dalawa.
-Bust o chest ay S=38, M=41, L=44 ang grading nito 3inch. ay -+0.75inch. (-+0.75) Hati sa apat.
-Waist line S=28, M=40, L=42 ang grading nito ay 3inch. -+0.75inch. (-+0.75) Hati sa apat.
-Bottom Sweep ay S=37.5, M=40.5, L=43.5 ang grading nito ay 3inch 0.75inch. (0.75) Hati sa apat.
-Sleeve Width at Armhole ay S=15.75, M=16.5, L=17.25 ang grading nito ay 0.75inch. (0.375) Hati sa dalawa.
-Sleeve Length at CB ay S=32, M=33, L=34 ang grading nito ay -+1. Kung ang specs ng haba ay mula center back bale ibabawas yong grading sa acrross shoulder. Kaya magiging -+0.625.
-Sleeve Length at Shoulder ay S=24, M=24.625, L=25.25 ang grading nito ay -+.0625
-Sleeve Cuff opening ay S=8.25, M=8.625, L=9.00 ang grading nito ay -+0.375 kung hindi folded, 0.1875 (kung folded)
-Collar height at CB ay S=1.875, M=1.875, L=1.875 0 grading wala po.
-Collar Point ay S=3.125, M=3.125, L=3.125 wala pong Grading.
-Collar Spread ay S=4.5, M=4.5, L=4.5 wala pong Grading.
-Collar band height ay S=1.25, M=1.25, L=1.25 wala pong Grading.

Kung natapos mo itong basahin marahil may nakita kang mali, paki comments na lang po para ma update o maipaliwag kung bakit.

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Garment Pattern Making: Digitizing Pattern Sample Size

Hi, the Philippines!

Our Topic Today is Digitizer!

The name of the experiment was to “Digitizing of a Pattern by using Gerber Scientific’s Digitizer and AccuMark Program”. The experiment comprised start of the AccuMark Software. Choice of the individual Storage Area in hard-drive (Style Number Ex. 123). Formulation of Rule Table, heading to operate Digitizing Table. The mouse with cross-hairs to change the Pattern in hard-form. To a Pattern in mild-form or “Digitized Pattern” in the AccuMark Software. Thus reducing analyze time and boosting adaptability.


Digitizing is a process of adding details of a pattern or slope into the computer.

Storage Area - Style number or the Design Name

Creation of Rule Table - Style number, Sizes, Grading rules

Digitizing Table

Mouse Cursor

Cursor: A tool to select function in a digitizing table.

A= point, B=assigned rule table, C-1=Notch, C-2=V notch

B-Rule table- Use to include a point that has grading (must create a rule table)

Rule Table;

Assign a number of graded points (Value)

1=.125
2.=.25
3.= 375
4.= .6275
5.= .75
6.= .875
7.= 1
8. and so on

Smoothing-A-D-8 (to lessen points in a curve line)

Non-smoothing=A-D-9 (straight line)

Paste your pattern on the table, Make sure the pattern grainline is aligned horizontally on the table.

Digitizing:
Select start piece press A
Select rule table press B
Go to pattern select the grainline and press starting line and the end line.
Grainline pressed A-A
Pressed Dilimeter * (Once done move cursor to an empty field and select the delimiter.)

Go to your Pattern pasted on the digitizer table

Make sure the pattern grainline is aligned horizontally on the table.

Place a number for every point that required grading.

Select start point 1
Pressed AB1
Next-Select point 2
Pressed AB2
Next-Select point 3
Pressed AB3
If curve line
Curve= Pressed A,A,A
If Notch required select either A-C-1 or A-C-2
Notch=A-C-1 (straight)
Notch=A-C-2 (V-notch)
Next-Select last point
Pressed A-B-last point
Select closed piece or mirrored piece
It there is an internal label (ex; Dart, embroidery, buttons point)
Pressed Internal Label Pressed A
Pressed Dilimiter *
Go to Internal lines A, A, A, B, number (if grading is required)

Select end input:Digitizing is over.

Proceed to next pattern:

1. Start piece Place the digitizer cursor over start piece in the digitizing menu and select “point” on the digitizing cursor.

2. Digitize Grain-line “point delimiter."

From left to right, place the cursor over the start and end of the grain-line using point to select points. Once done move cursor to an empty field and selecting delimiter.

3. Digitize Peremitter

Start digitizing the piece at a straight closed line or the mirror line. Use the point to start perimeter.

4. Close or Mirror piece.

Once all points have assigned, the last one should be a straight line from the first start points. After last point placed select close piece or mirror piece and selecting with the point.

5. Internal points

Points > points > then press delimiter (*)

After the piece is closed, you can add two internal lines. Internal line labels can assign by selecting the menu option. Once done entering all internal lines, you can select delimiter.

6. End input- after completing all perimeter lines and internals. Place the cursor over end input and select using point.

Rule Table

Creating a Rule Table
Numeric- Sizes by Numbers ex. 0,2,4,6,8,10,12
Alphanumeric- Sizes by letter ex. S, M, L, XL
1 Assign a Style number
2 Select Size name: Numeric or alphanumeric
3. Input smallest size
4. Next size breaks
5. Input base size
6. Type file name
7. Save

How to set up Default Parameter Tables
Default parameter tables will automatically copy all of the parameter tables from a specified storage area when you create new storage areas.

It will copy all rule tables, notch tables, laylimit, and annotation tables as well. This simplifies the setting up of future storage areas so your user environment is consistently the same.

READ:Garment Pattern Making: Approval sample and adding shrinkage's

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