The topic today is sample pattern, specifications grading and applying shrinkages allowance to meet required measurements.
AP (after pressing)
BP (Before pressing)
Before the manufacturer accepts the job order, there is an initial task to agreed upon before the production start. The product cost: In order to find the labor and material cost, the pattern department will do an estimate of fabric and other accessories using the middle size of the entire specs. When they both agreed on the price, it's time to prepare the pattern to make a counter sample approval for the buyer approval before productions.
Final specs against manufacturer specs;
The specs are telling the pattern maker to add 1.16% for the pattern length and 1.04% for the width of the pattern.
This means every horizontal direction or length of the pattern is required to add 1.16% and for vertical direction required a 1.04% addition.
What the pattern maker will do?
The pattern maker will do the computation choosing a middle size as a sample size from the entire specifications. From given specs the sizing is 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14. The pattern department will choose the middle size for these specs which either 6 or 8. Most of the time the buyer will advise to choose for size 8. The buyer will provide finished specs.
The maker or the manufacturer will do the fabric shrinkages test to find the fabric shrinkage amount. Since the fabric is non-washed, they will cut an 18inch. x 18inch. sample fabric. Submerged the fabric in clean water for a certain amount of time then dry and press. Make sure to record the fabric measurements before and after pressing. The fabric will now be measured to get the actual shrinkage result that will be relayed to the pattern maker to add the amount of shrinkage to the pattern sample.
When the pattern is ready it will be submitted to the marker department for consumption approval. If the marker meets the targeted consumption it will go to the cutting section, to sample sewing, finishing then to quality section, packing and finally sending it for buyer sample approval.
So the pattern maker will use a size 8 specs which will add the shrinkage allowance of 1.16% for length and 1.04% for width.
Once the sample is approved the buyer may or may not require a production sample or sizes sample. When everything is OK a production pattern or graded pattern will be the final task of the patten department to be work out.
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