Mastering Garment: A Comprehensive Guide

Are you interested in mastering the art of garment making? Whether you are a beginner or an experienced sewer, pattern making is a crucial skill to have in your repertoire. In this step-by-step guide, we will walk you through the process of pattern making. So you can create professional-quality garments with ease.

Pattern Making Basics

Pattern making is the process of creating a blueprint for a garment that serves as the foundation for cutting and sewing the fabric. It involves taking precise measurements, drafting the pattern pieces, and testing the fit before cutting into the final fabric.

Starting with Measurements

The first step in pattern making is to take accurate measurements of the person who will be wearing the garment. To ensure a proper fit, it is important to take measurements at key points, including the bust, waist, hip, and inseam.

Drafting the Pattern

Once you have the measurements, it's time to draft the pattern pieces. This involves using rulers, curves, and other drafting tools to create the desired shape and silhouette of the garment. Remember to add seam allowances and markings for darts and pleats.

Testing the Fit

After you have drafted the pattern pieces, it's important to test the fit by creating a muslin mock-up of the garment. This allows you to make any necessary adjustments to the pattern before cutting into the final fabric.

Advanced Techniques

Once you have mastered the basics of pattern making, you can explore more advanced techniques to take your skills to the next level. These may include:

• Draping: Draping involves manipulating fabric directly on a dress form to create a garment shape. This method enables greater artistic flexibility and may lead to original and inventive creations.
• Pattern Grading: Pattern grading is the process of scaling a pattern up or down to create different sizes. This is essential for creating a range of sizes for your designs.
• Pattern Manipulation: Experimenting with pattern manipulation techniques such as slashing and spreading, pivoting, and rotating can lead to interesting design variations.

Tips for Success

• Practice makes perfect: Like any skill, pattern making requires practice to master. Don't be afraid to make mistakes and learn from them.
• Invest in quality tools: Having the right tools can make a big difference in the accuracy and ease of pattern making. Invest in quality rulers, curves, and drafting paper.
• Take a class or workshop: If you are new to pattern making, consider taking a class or workshop to learn from an experienced instructor and connect with other sewing enthusiasts.
  In conclusion, mastering garment making through pattern making is a rewarding and fulfilling skill to have. With dedication, practice, and the right tools, you can create professional-quality garments that fit perfectly and showcase your creativity. Start your pattern-making journey today and watch your sewing skills soar to new heights.

Garment Pattern Making: Approval sample and adding shrinkage's

Hello, the Philippines!

The topic today is sample pattern, specifications grading and applying shrinkages allowance to meet required measurements.

AP (after pressing)

BP (Before pressing)

Before the manufacturer accepts the job order, there is an initial task to agreed upon before the production start. The product cost: In order to find the labor and material cost, the pattern department will do an estimate of fabric and other accessories using the middle size of the entire specs. When they both agreed on the price, it's time to prepare the pattern to make a counter sample approval for the buyer approval before productions.

Final specs against manufacturer specs;

The specs are telling the pattern maker to add 1.16% for the pattern length and 1.04% for the width of the pattern.

This means every horizontal direction or length of the pattern is required to add 1.16% and for vertical direction required a 1.04% addition.

What the pattern maker will do?

The pattern maker will do the computation choosing a middle size as a sample size from the entire specifications. From given specs the sizing is 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14. The pattern department will choose the middle size for these specs which either 6 or 8. Most of the time the buyer will advise to choose for size 8. The buyer will provide finished specs.

The maker or the manufacturer will do the fabric shrinkages test to find the fabric shrinkage amount. Since the fabric is non-washed, they will cut an 18inch. x 18inch. sample fabric. Submerged the fabric in clean water for a certain amount of time then dry and press. Make sure to record the fabric measurements before and after pressing. The fabric will now be measured to get the actual shrinkage result that will be relayed to the pattern maker to add the amount of shrinkage to the pattern sample.

When the pattern is ready it will be submitted to the marker department for consumption approval. If the marker meets the targeted consumption it will go to the cutting section, to sample sewing, finishing then to quality section, packing and finally sending it for buyer sample approval.

So the pattern maker will use a size 8 specs which will add the shrinkage allowance of 1.16% for length and 1.04% for width.

Once the sample is approved the buyer may or may not require a production sample or sizes sample. When everything is OK a production pattern or graded pattern will be the final task of the patten department to be work out.

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