Garment Pattern Making: Nested Pattern and X and Y Grading Applications

Nested Pattern:

Ito po ay ang pattern na pwede ng gamitin sa productions for marking, size sets sample o production counter sample. Ibig sabihin ang lahat na mga sizes ay graded na o pinaliit at pinalaki.

X and Y Grading Applications

Ito po ay aking ipapakita ang pag apply ng grading X and Y sa bawat punto na kailangan ang pagbabago ng padron. Nested dahil kung iyong makikita ay isang padron lamang ito subalit itoy magkakapatong. Kung iyong gagamitin ito sa marker making ito ay mag kakahiwalay na iyong oorderin sa paggawa ng marker. Kung manual ang marker na gagawin ito ay kailangang i trace ang mga sizes mula sa nested pattern. Kung sa computerized marker gagawa ka ng Marker model na iyong ihahanda ang mga datos na kakailanganin.

Halimbawa:

Marker width 60" 58" ang gagamiting width hindi kailangang sakto sa 60"
Target Marker Length 5 yards
Sizes; Small, Medium, Large
Model name; Men's Shirt 2020
Piece name: Men's Shirt Back
Piece Category: Back
Piece name: Men's Shirt Front
Piece Category: Front
Piece Description: Cut 1
Piece Description: Cut 2
Fabric: Main
                flip
Order: 1  0
Order: 1  1

Kailangan lahat na parte ng damit kailangang isama sa maga sizes na inorder. Kung ang fabric ay may combination, kailangan ibukod ang marker nito.

Ganoon din ang fusible na gagamitin hiwalay din ang marker.

Ito pong specs ang ating pagbabasihan ng grading sa pattern:

The procedures in paper pattern grading

By grading a well-known technique in the apparel manufacturing industry. This technique is to increase or decrease a piece of a size. Begin one size so that all content maintains its original shape. This classification network of the block mode is also the basic network of components developed from the block model.

Assign label clothing styles involves many techniques, but they all have a common principle: the basic level.

We can divide these rating systems into the following two broad systems:

• Track translation system or two-dimensional level.
• Preliminary rating system or three-dimensional rating.

Two-dimensional system:
Two-dimensional sorting systems can only sort patterns by perimeter and height. Therefore, their application is limited to loss or semi-covered garments because it keeps standard size blanks throughout the entire size range. This system is most suitable for very loose clothing (such as shirts or T-shirts). With a limited range (such as 4-6-8-10-12-14), and it may be possible to use a two-dimensional system to classify them.

Three-dimensional system:
This system not only increases the size of the pattern but also increases or decreases conceal the following areas:

• Bust to shoulder
• Hip to waist
• Elbow to wrist

Three-dimensional grading is the best system. Three-dimensional grading should use as much as possible. By grading tight or tight clothing and clothing with sizes expanded from 8 to 18. The most important area of clothing is the amount of restraint from the bust to the shoulders. Using a three-dimensional classification system requires a good understanding of pattern cutting.

Types of clothing: There are two major categories, they are:

• Tight or tight clothing.
• Loose or semi-covered clothes.

The tighter the garment, the more important it is to choose a sophisticated garment classification system. That matches the undressing of the garment. If the fit of the clothes is looser, the value of adjusting the clothes suppression will reduce. So it is more recommended to use a two-dimensional system.

Several sizes: This may depend on whether the clothes are tight or loose. But refers to the situation that the company or company only provides a few sizes. The complexity of the classification system, and so on.

Fabric type: To classify, we can divide special fabrics into two conventional types:

• With fabric shrinkage
• Fabric doesn’t shrink

Elastic fabrics are more adjustable and can conform to the contours or contours of the body, so they can use. An inelastic piece of cloth has the opposite effect and must control and balanced throughout the size range.

Classification technology:

• Draft or multi-size (nested) level.
• A single-size track or slope.

Draft level: they use this term when the pattern returns to its original block shape. Or when increments apply to the actual pattern draft. This causes the entire size range to overlap with each other and is described by the terms “nested” or “tracking.” Select or track the various parts of the pattern of each size on the card. The draft level can be two-dimensional or three-dimensional. Three-dimensional slope considered being the determination method of the applied slope increment.

The slope of the track: This term will be used when the slope increment applies to each segment of the pattern. By moving the segments of the basic pattern together with the preset track. Make the pattern piece by piece to change its size. The system is two-dimensional, but it is difficult to adapt to a three-dimensional system.

The following are the steps for manual authentication:

• Prepare the specification
• Qualifications of the model
• Check the scale size of the pattern
• Complete the pattern.

The tools required for classification are:

• Table
• Parallel rules
• Puncher
• Pencil
• Proportion Divisor
• French curve
• Armhole curve
• Tailor’s Square
• Grooving machine
• Results rules
• Tape measure
• Colored pencils or pens

Size range-The size system is a predetermined size range, the maximum difference in circumference between each size. The size change is plus or minus 2 cm, so the logical size range will be 4 cm. An interval of less than 4 cm will cause the most used size in this range.

Size table: Two types of size tables are used.

• Body size: This type of chart provides the body size of each size. These sizes the basis for constructing patterns as needed.
• Clothing size: This chart provides detailed information about the finished size. The specifications of each size and used for pattern classification. Size is combine measurements, and a symbol which is a common code between clothing manufacturers and consumers represents each combination.

“X” and “Y” axis: The x-axis of the body and the y-axis of the body and skirt. It will be a line parallel to the center of the back of the center of the front. This is always the case. If the straight y-axis is a line parallel to the large circle line (for example, bust, waist, or hip).

Gerber Accumark Machine

The different qualifications that are still in use are manual. Machine qualifications and computer qualifications that are still in use. The practice of clothing classification involves the effective production of accurate patterns. For this reason, it should always follow some basic rules. There are no hard and fast rules on how to generate the scale pattern set. The choice of the working method also depends on the accuracy and convenience of each person.

Gerber accumark compatible Plotter 72 inch

Note:
The graded pattern must include separate sizes transferred to cardboard for sewing references.

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Basics of pattern creation

Create clothing involves different processes. Fit is the most important factor leading to the absolute acceptance or rejection of clothing. It should design the body with the original pattern, to keep the subtleties of the pattern. Provide fullness in the position and accommodate the uplift of the body. Good tailoring suitability depends on combining patterns of individual customers with different shapes and proportions. With the start of the industrial revolution, standardized patterns critical to the success of ready-made garments.

Pattern making is an art. The art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to fit one more curve of the human figure. Pattern making is the bridge function between design and production. We can transform a sketch into a garment through a pattern, explain the design in the shape of the garment component.

When the body is not flat, the pattern is flat. The body has height, width, and depth. In this cylindrical frame, there are many minor curves and protrusions, which interest the cartographer. Darts are the basis of all modes. They turned a flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape that matched the bumps on the body.

They make patterns from flat sketches with measured values or two-dimensional fashion illustrations. The basic pattern is the basis for creating, adjusting, and designing patterns. The basic pattern is the starting point of the graphic pattern design. This is a simple pattern that fits the body to provide movement and comfort.

Pattern creation method

It involved three methods in pattern creation:

• Drafting
• Drape
• Flat paper pattern

The drafting method:

It involves measurement results from a sizing system or precise measurement of people, clothing, or body shape. The measurement values of the chest, waist, buttocks. Distribute relief is all marked on paper, and they draw construction lines to complete the pattern. Drawing is used to create basic, basic, or design patterns.

Dangle:

It involves placing a two-dimensional fabric around a shape and adapting it to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. The muslin was transferred to paper and used as the final pattern. Added sports facilities to make clothes comfortable to wear. The advantage of drape is that the designer can see the overall effect of the finished clothes. The design on the shape of the human body before cutting and sewing the clothes. However, it is more expensive and time-consuming compared to creating flat patterns.

Manufacture flat patterns:

It involves developing a basic pattern that can adjust to fit the shape of the person or body. The slope is the starting point of the graphic design. This is a simple pattern that fits the body to provide movement and comfort. They used five basic patterns in women’s clothing. They include a fitted corset at the front, a pleated back body at the back. A basic neckline, sleeves, and a pleated skirt that fit the front and back. However, with frequent changes in fashion, women’s styles will change. They then manipulated these basic models to create fashion.

Basic swimsuits have no seam allowance, so you can manipulate various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines marked on it. The basic structure of the slope should be easy to input settings. For good pattern making, accurate measurement is essential.

They used the flat pattern method in the ready-to-wear market, because of its speed and accuracy.

Pattern Making in Today’s World

Nowadays, it has become very easy to use a computer to create patterns. Nowadays, a variety of software is available on the market to meet the needs of manufacturers. The different software used is Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech, Optitex, etc. The software facilitates the work of employers. They make the pattern creation process cheaper and more timesaving.

Pattern creation software allows you to input measurement values and design patterns. It tailors these software sketch styles for your measurements, thus eliminating many cutting trials and errors in the sewing room.

By using this software, you can make patterns from 3D shapes in just a few steps. We can get personal measurement values from the 3D body scanner. These measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual’s body. 3D to 2D software allows users to define the surface of clothes using a 3D human body model. After defining the surface of the clothes, the application will unfold and generate a flat 2D pattern in .dxf format.

Photo by 鮮花 李 on Unsplash