Garment Pattern Making: Nested Pattern and X and Y Grading Applications

Nested Pattern:

Ito po ay ang pattern na pwede ng gamitin sa productions for marking, size sets sample o production counter sample. Ibig sabihin ang lahat na mga sizes ay graded na o pinaliit at pinalaki.

X and Y Grading Applications

Ito po ay aking ipapakita ang pag apply ng grading X and Y sa bawat punto na kailangan ang pagbabago ng padron. Nested dahil kung iyong makikita ay isang padron lamang ito subalit itoy magkakapatong. Kung iyong gagamitin ito sa marker making ito ay mag kakahiwalay na iyong oorderin sa paggawa ng marker. Kung manual ang marker na gagawin ito ay kailangang i trace ang mga sizes mula sa nested pattern. Kung sa computerized marker gagawa ka ng Marker model na iyong ihahanda ang mga datos na kakailanganin.

Halimbawa:

Marker width 60" 58" ang gagamiting width hindi kailangang sakto sa 60"
Target Marker Length 5 yards
Sizes; Small, Medium, Large
Model name; Men's Shirt 2020
Piece name: Men's Shirt Back
Piece Category: Back
Piece name: Men's Shirt Front
Piece Category: Front
Piece Description: Cut 1
Piece Description: Cut 2
Fabric: Main
                flip
Order: 1  0
Order: 1  1

Kailangan lahat na parte ng damit kailangang isama sa maga sizes na inorder. Kung ang fabric ay may combination, kailangan ibukod ang marker nito.

Ganoon din ang fusible na gagamitin hiwalay din ang marker.

Ito pong specs ang ating pagbabasihan ng grading sa pattern:

Garment Pattern Making: Digitizing Pattern Sample Size

Hi, the Philippines!

Our Topic Today is Digitizer!

The name of the experiment was to “Digitizing of a Pattern by using Gerber Scientific’s Digitizer and AccuMark Program”. The experiment comprised start of the AccuMark Software. Choice of the individual Storage Area in hard-drive (Style Number Ex. 123). Formulation of Rule Table, heading to operate Digitizing Table. The mouse with cross-hairs to change the Pattern in hard-form. To a Pattern in mild-form or “Digitized Pattern” in the AccuMark Software. Thus reducing analyze time and boosting adaptability.


Digitizing is a process of adding details of a pattern or slope into the computer.

Storage Area - Style number or the Design Name

Creation of Rule Table - Style number, Sizes, Grading rules

Digitizing Table

Mouse Cursor

Cursor: A tool to select function in a digitizing table.

A= point, B=assigned rule table, C-1=Notch, C-2=V notch

B-Rule table- Use to include a point that has grading (must create a rule table)

Rule Table;

Assign a number of graded points (Value)

1=.125
2.=.25
3.= 375
4.= .6275
5.= .75
6.= .875
7.= 1
8. and so on

Smoothing-A-D-8 (to lessen points in a curve line)

Non-smoothing=A-D-9 (straight line)

Paste your pattern on the table, Make sure the pattern grainline is aligned horizontally on the table.

Digitizing:
Select start piece press A
Select rule table press B
Go to pattern select the grainline and press starting line and the end line.
Grainline pressed A-A
Pressed Dilimeter * (Once done move cursor to an empty field and select the delimiter.)

Go to your Pattern pasted on the digitizer table

Make sure the pattern grainline is aligned horizontally on the table.

Place a number for every point that required grading.

Select start point 1
Pressed AB1
Next-Select point 2
Pressed AB2
Next-Select point 3
Pressed AB3
If curve line
Curve= Pressed A,A,A
If Notch required select either A-C-1 or A-C-2
Notch=A-C-1 (straight)
Notch=A-C-2 (V-notch)
Next-Select last point
Pressed A-B-last point
Select closed piece or mirrored piece
It there is an internal label (ex; Dart, embroidery, buttons point)
Pressed Internal Label Pressed A
Pressed Dilimiter *
Go to Internal lines A, A, A, B, number (if grading is required)

Select end input:Digitizing is over.

Proceed to next pattern:

1. Start piece Place the digitizer cursor over start piece in the digitizing menu and select “point” on the digitizing cursor.

2. Digitize Grain-line “point delimiter."

From left to right, place the cursor over the start and end of the grain-line using point to select points. Once done move cursor to an empty field and selecting delimiter.

3. Digitize Peremitter

Start digitizing the piece at a straight closed line or the mirror line. Use the point to start perimeter.

4. Close or Mirror piece.

Once all points have assigned, the last one should be a straight line from the first start points. After last point placed select close piece or mirror piece and selecting with the point.

5. Internal points

Points > points > then press delimiter (*)

After the piece is closed, you can add two internal lines. Internal line labels can assign by selecting the menu option. Once done entering all internal lines, you can select delimiter.

6. End input- after completing all perimeter lines and internals. Place the cursor over end input and select using point.

Rule Table

Creating a Rule Table
Numeric- Sizes by Numbers ex. 0,2,4,6,8,10,12
Alphanumeric- Sizes by letter ex. S, M, L, XL
1 Assign a Style number
2 Select Size name: Numeric or alphanumeric
3. Input smallest size
4. Next size breaks
5. Input base size
6. Type file name
7. Save

How to set up Default Parameter Tables
Default parameter tables will automatically copy all of the parameter tables from a specified storage area when you create new storage areas.

It will copy all rule tables, notch tables, laylimit, and annotation tables as well. This simplifies the setting up of future storage areas so your user environment is consistently the same.

READ:Garment Pattern Making: Approval sample and adding shrinkage's

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