Creating a Person Basic Pattern for Dress Making

Developing garments involves different processes. Fit is the most important factor in the absolute acceptance or rejection of a garment. The fit should be original through subtleties in the pattern. Provides fullness where appropriate, accommodating body bulges in a flattering way. A good custom fit depends on drawing a pattern that incorporates the various shapes and proportions of the individual client. As the Industrial Revolution began, standardized patterns were critical to the success of ready-to-wear.

Plate making is an art. The art of manipulating and shaping a flat cloth to fit one or more curves of the human body. Pattern making is a bridge function between idea and manufacture. Sketches can turn into garments by interpreting the designed patterns as garment components.

The pattern is flat, while the body is not. The body of a person includes height, width, and depth. In this more or less cylindrical frame, there are a series of minor curves and bulges. Which relates to the patternmaker. We find darts in all pattern making. They turned the flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape that matched the bumps on the body.

Garments Manufacturing Books and Machines

Patternmakers create patterns from flat sketches or 2D fashion illustrations with measurements. Basic patterns are the basis for pattern making, assembly, and design. The primary pattern is the setting up position for a flat pattern layout. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort.

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Pattern creation method:

Pattern making involves three methods:

• Drawing
• Draping
• Flat paper pattern

Drafting:
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or precise measurements of the shape of a person, clothing, or body. The measurements for bust, waist, hips, etc. The loose allowance is marked on the paper and construction. We draw lines to complete the pattern. Drawings are used to create basic, basic, or design patterns.

Drape: It involves draping a piece of two-dimensional fabric around a shape. Making it conform to its shape and creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. It transferred this muslin to paper for the final pattern. Increases the convenience of movement and makes the garment comfortable to wear. The benefit of draping is that the designer can see the overall effect of the finished garment design. On the body shape before the garment is cut and sewn. However, it is too lavish and time-consuming than flat pattern making.

Creation of the flat style:
To develop a basic pattern that fits a person or body type, a sloper is adjusted. Sloper is the starting point for a flat pattern design. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort. We use five basic pattern pieces for womenswear. They feature a cinched front and rear pleated bodice. A basic neckline, one sleeve, and a fitted front and pleated back skirt. However, women’s styles often fluctuate as fashions change. They then manipulated these basic slopes to create fashion.

The basic sloper has no seam allowance and can manipulate into a variety of styles. It has no design interest, only the construction lines marked. The basic structure of the slider should be such that it is easy to enter settings. For a good pattern, accurate measurements are paramount.
We use the flat patterning method in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate.

Pattern making in today’s generations:
Today, making patterns using a computer has become a simple job. Today, there are different software on the market to meet the needs of manufacturers. The different software used are Gerber, Tukatech, Lectra, OptiTex, etc. This software makes the pattern master’s job easier. They make the pattern-making process cheaper and less time-consuming.

Pattern-making software allows you to enter measurements and draw patterns. The software draws patterns tailored to your measurements, eliminating a lot of trial and error in the sewing room.

Use this software to create patterns from 3D shapes in just a few steps. We collected individual measurements from 3D body scanners. It employed the dimensions to make a virtual 3D model of the human being's body. 3D to 2D software allows the user to define the surface of the garment for the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application unfolds and generates a flat 2D pattern in .dxf format.

Garment Pattern Making: Nested Pattern and X and Y Grading Applications

Nested Pattern:

Ito po ay ang pattern na pwede ng gamitin sa productions for marking, size sets sample o production counter sample. Ibig sabihin ang lahat na mga sizes ay graded na o pinaliit at pinalaki.

X and Y Grading Applications

Ito po ay aking ipapakita ang pag apply ng grading X and Y sa bawat punto na kailangan ang pagbabago ng padron. Nested dahil kung iyong makikita ay isang padron lamang ito subalit itoy magkakapatong. Kung iyong gagamitin ito sa marker making ito ay mag kakahiwalay na iyong oorderin sa paggawa ng marker. Kung manual ang marker na gagawin ito ay kailangang i trace ang mga sizes mula sa nested pattern. Kung sa computerized marker gagawa ka ng Marker model na iyong ihahanda ang mga datos na kakailanganin.

Halimbawa:

Marker width 60" 58" ang gagamiting width hindi kailangang sakto sa 60"
Target Marker Length 5 yards
Sizes; Small, Medium, Large
Model name; Men's Shirt 2020
Piece name: Men's Shirt Back
Piece Category: Back
Piece name: Men's Shirt Front
Piece Category: Front
Piece Description: Cut 1
Piece Description: Cut 2
Fabric: Main
                flip
Order: 1  0
Order: 1  1

Kailangan lahat na parte ng damit kailangang isama sa maga sizes na inorder. Kung ang fabric ay may combination, kailangan ibukod ang marker nito.

Ganoon din ang fusible na gagamitin hiwalay din ang marker.

Ito pong specs ang ating pagbabasihan ng grading sa pattern:

How to Make Great Patterns for Easy Sewing

Creating sewing patterns is a great way to save money and time in the dressing room. You can use specific sizes to compose your custom corset. This will allow you to sew tops or dresses and make sure they fit. To make the pattern easier, please select a project that suits you and track it to make the pattern.

Take measurements. To create an accurate pattern that suits you. You will need to use a soft tape measure and record the following measurements:

• Women’s bust: Wrap the tape around the entire bust.
• Waist: Measure the narrowest part of the natural waist.
• Dress height: Stand upright on the wall and ask someone. Measure from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet.
• Men’s shirt collar: Wrap tape around the neck where the shirt collar is located.
• Hips: Wrap tape around the widest part of the hips.
• Length and width of the back measure the length from the neck to the waist. Measure the width along the widest part of the back.
• Chest in men’s or women’s clothing: Measure the widest part of the chest above the chest.
• Sleeve length: Hold the tape from shoulder to arm, as long as it fits the sleeve.
• Shoulder length: The distance from the neck to the edge of the shoulder.
• Upper arm width: Wrap the tape measure around the thickest part of the armpit near the armpit.

Draw the design sketch of the garment you want to make. Decide whether to make skirts, pants, or tops, and whether to have sleeves. Draw a rough design that comes to be visible in the garment. This will help you determine how to divide the garment into parts. So you know how many individual patterns you need to make.

• For example, if you want to make casual clothes. You may need a front body, a back body, and a belt pattern on the sleeve.

Place a sheet of flat paper and trace the length of the pattern. Place a large pattern or brown postcard paper on a flat work surface. Make sure that one side of the paper is straight. Place a ruler 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of the paper. Measure from that point down until the length of the clothes you want.

• For example, if you are 6 feet (1.8 cm) tall. Make your skirt 37 inches (94 cm) long to match the mini dress. Make the skirt 40 inches (101.6 cm) long and a knee dress, or 61 inches (154.9 cm).
• The straight edge of the paper will become the front center (CF) of the pattern. Mark your length along this edge.

Tip: To determine how long to wear a piece of clothing. Check the height measurement and determine how much of the clothing to cover. If you are making a shirt or top. Please check the length of your back and where you want the shirt to fall with your waist.

Draw horizontal lines to mark the shoulders, bust, waist, and hips. Place a ruler so it forms a 90-degree angle on top of the line drawing for the center front line. Draw this top horizontal line, this will be your shoulder line. Lower the ruler to make the bust level. Move the ruler down again to draw a horizontal waist. The bottom of the shirt is the hip line.

• Check your measurements to decide where to put the ruler on the shoulder path, bust position, waistline, and hip position.

Trace a line joining the size of the bust or chest, waist, and hips. Check your measurement and point out a point 1/4 of the measurement on the bustline. The same is true for the waist and hips. Next, use a pencil and a curved ruler. Draw a line to connect the points on the bust or chest line, waistline, and hip line.

• For example, your bust size is 40 inches (100 cm), divide it by 4 to get 10 inches (25 cm). Mark 10 inches (25 cm) from the edge of the bustline.
• This will make 1 edge of the central part of the pattern.

Draw the neckline and shoulders. Use a curved ruler to draw the cleavage from the top of the shoulder line to the centerline of the front. You can set the neckline as low or high according to your preference. Remember, the back neckline is higher than the front neckline. Leave room for the armholes and draw a curve from the shoulder down above the bustline.

• To make your shoulders sit down, tilt your shoulders downward.

Add seam allowance throughout the curved ends of the work. Use the ruler or the seam allowance ruler to trace a path parallel to the outline of the pattern. Add 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of margin.

• You can add 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of margin along the bottom line. This can make the hem of the clothes easier.
• For example, if your pattern block is 61 inches (154.9 cm) long. Make the seam allowance line 61 1⁄2 inch (156.2 cm) long.

If you want the dress or shirt to have sleeves, create a sleeve pattern. View your measurements of sleeve length and upper arm width and determine the style of clothing sleeves you want. Draw the sleeve pattern on the crease.

• For example, the length of the sleeve can be 5 inches (13 cm) long. You will use a 12-inch (30 cm) arm width measurement to determine the width of the sleeve.

Cut and paste the pattern fragments. Place another piece of pattern paper under the pattern you are tracking. Nail the paper together, use scissors to cut two layers along the seam allowance line. The bottom layer will become the back pattern. Be careful not to cut the curved neckline so you can adjust the front and back parts to your liking.

• For example, you want to cut the front neckline below and then keep the back neckline high.
• Mark each pattern you make so you can track them.

Tip: The number of patterns you need to make depends on the clothing you make. For example, if you want to make a simple shirt, you may only need 4 pattern pieces. Front 1, back 1, sleeve 2, neck collar 1. A wide flared skirt may require 6 identical parts, connected to a waist part.

Pattern Making Book

Make sure all seams have an allowance for sewing. Seams allowance required different allowances before fabric cutting.

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