Garment Pattern Making: Digitizing Pattern Sample Size

Hi, the Philippines!

Our Topic Today is Digitizer!

The name of the experiment was to “Digitizing of a Pattern by using Gerber Scientific’s Digitizer and AccuMark Program”. The experiment comprised start of the AccuMark Software. Choice of the individual Storage Area in hard-drive (Style Number Ex. 123). Formulation of Rule Table, heading to operate Digitizing Table. The mouse with cross-hairs to change the Pattern in hard-form. To a Pattern in mild-form or “Digitized Pattern” in the AccuMark Software. Thus reducing analyze time and boosting adaptability.


Digitizing is a process of adding details of a pattern or slope into the computer.

Storage Area - Style number or the Design Name

Creation of Rule Table - Style number, Sizes, Grading rules

Digitizing Table

Mouse Cursor

Cursor: A tool to select function in a digitizing table.

A= point, B=assigned rule table, C-1=Notch, C-2=V notch

B-Rule table- Use to include a point that has grading (must create a rule table)

Rule Table;

Assign a number of graded points (Value)

1=.125
2.=.25
3.= 375
4.= .6275
5.= .75
6.= .875
7.= 1
8. and so on

Smoothing-A-D-8 (to lessen points in a curve line)

Non-smoothing=A-D-9 (straight line)

Paste your pattern on the table, Make sure the pattern grainline is aligned horizontally on the table.

Digitizing:
Select start piece press A
Select rule table press B
Go to pattern select the grainline and press starting line and the end line.
Grainline pressed A-A
Pressed Dilimeter * (Once done move cursor to an empty field and select the delimiter.)

Go to your Pattern pasted on the digitizer table

Make sure the pattern grainline is aligned horizontally on the table.

Place a number for every point that required grading.

Select start point 1
Pressed AB1
Next-Select point 2
Pressed AB2
Next-Select point 3
Pressed AB3
If curve line
Curve= Pressed A,A,A
If Notch required select either A-C-1 or A-C-2
Notch=A-C-1 (straight)
Notch=A-C-2 (V-notch)
Next-Select last point
Pressed A-B-last point
Select closed piece or mirrored piece
It there is an internal label (ex; Dart, embroidery, buttons point)
Pressed Internal Label Pressed A
Pressed Dilimiter *
Go to Internal lines A, A, A, B, number (if grading is required)

Select end input:Digitizing is over.

Proceed to next pattern:

1. Start piece Place the digitizer cursor over start piece in the digitizing menu and select “point” on the digitizing cursor.

2. Digitize Grain-line “point delimiter."

From left to right, place the cursor over the start and end of the grain-line using point to select points. Once done move cursor to an empty field and selecting delimiter.

3. Digitize Peremitter

Start digitizing the piece at a straight closed line or the mirror line. Use the point to start perimeter.

4. Close or Mirror piece.

Once all points have assigned, the last one should be a straight line from the first start points. After last point placed select close piece or mirror piece and selecting with the point.

5. Internal points

Points > points > then press delimiter (*)

After the piece is closed, you can add two internal lines. Internal line labels can assign by selecting the menu option. Once done entering all internal lines, you can select delimiter.

6. End input- after completing all perimeter lines and internals. Place the cursor over end input and select using point.

Rule Table

Creating a Rule Table
Numeric- Sizes by Numbers ex. 0,2,4,6,8,10,12
Alphanumeric- Sizes by letter ex. S, M, L, XL
1 Assign a Style number
2 Select Size name: Numeric or alphanumeric
3. Input smallest size
4. Next size breaks
5. Input base size
6. Type file name
7. Save

How to set up Default Parameter Tables
Default parameter tables will automatically copy all of the parameter tables from a specified storage area when you create new storage areas.

It will copy all rule tables, notch tables, laylimit, and annotation tables as well. This simplifies the setting up of future storage areas so your user environment is consistently the same.

READ:Garment Pattern Making: Approval sample and adding shrinkage's

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The procedures in paper pattern grading

By grading a well-known technique in the apparel manufacturing industry. This technique is to increase or decrease a piece of a size. Begin one size so that all content maintains its original shape. This classification network of the block mode is also the basic network of components developed from the block model.

Assign label clothing styles involves many techniques, but they all have a common principle: the basic level.

We can divide these rating systems into the following two broad systems:

• Track translation system or two-dimensional level.
• Preliminary rating system or three-dimensional rating.

Two-dimensional system:
Two-dimensional sorting systems can only sort patterns by perimeter and height. Therefore, their application is limited to loss or semi-covered garments because it keeps standard size blanks throughout the entire size range. This system is most suitable for very loose clothing (such as shirts or T-shirts). With a limited range (such as 4-6-8-10-12-14), and it may be possible to use a two-dimensional system to classify them.

Three-dimensional system:
This system not only increases the size of the pattern but also increases or decreases conceal the following areas:

• Bust to shoulder
• Hip to waist
• Elbow to wrist

Three-dimensional grading is the best system. Three-dimensional grading should use as much as possible. By grading tight or tight clothing and clothing with sizes expanded from 8 to 18. The most important area of clothing is the amount of restraint from the bust to the shoulders. Using a three-dimensional classification system requires a good understanding of pattern cutting.

Types of clothing: There are two major categories, they are:

• Tight or tight clothing.
• Loose or semi-covered clothes.

The tighter the garment, the more important it is to choose a sophisticated garment classification system. That matches the undressing of the garment. If the fit of the clothes is looser, the value of adjusting the clothes suppression will reduce. So it is more recommended to use a two-dimensional system.

Several sizes: This may depend on whether the clothes are tight or loose. But refers to the situation that the company or company only provides a few sizes. The complexity of the classification system, and so on.

Fabric type: To classify, we can divide special fabrics into two conventional types:

• With fabric shrinkage
• Fabric doesn’t shrink

Elastic fabrics are more adjustable and can conform to the contours or contours of the body, so they can use. An inelastic piece of cloth has the opposite effect and must control and balanced throughout the size range.

Classification technology:

• Draft or multi-size (nested) level.
• A single-size track or slope.

Draft level: they use this term when the pattern returns to its original block shape. Or when increments apply to the actual pattern draft. This causes the entire size range to overlap with each other and is described by the terms “nested” or “tracking.” Select or track the various parts of the pattern of each size on the card. The draft level can be two-dimensional or three-dimensional. Three-dimensional slope considered being the determination method of the applied slope increment.

The slope of the track: This term will be used when the slope increment applies to each segment of the pattern. By moving the segments of the basic pattern together with the preset track. Make the pattern piece by piece to change its size. The system is two-dimensional, but it is difficult to adapt to a three-dimensional system.

The following are the steps for manual authentication:

• Prepare the specification
• Qualifications of the model
• Check the scale size of the pattern
• Complete the pattern.

The tools required for classification are:

• Table
• Parallel rules
• Puncher
• Pencil
• Proportion Divisor
• French curve
• Armhole curve
• Tailor’s Square
• Grooving machine
• Results rules
• Tape measure
• Colored pencils or pens

Size range-The size system is a predetermined size range, the maximum difference in circumference between each size. The size change is plus or minus 2 cm, so the logical size range will be 4 cm. An interval of less than 4 cm will cause the most used size in this range.

Size table: Two types of size tables are used.

• Body size: This type of chart provides the body size of each size. These sizes the basis for constructing patterns as needed.
• Clothing size: This chart provides detailed information about the finished size. The specifications of each size and used for pattern classification. Size is combine measurements, and a symbol which is a common code between clothing manufacturers and consumers represents each combination.

“X” and “Y” axis: The x-axis of the body and the y-axis of the body and skirt. It will be a line parallel to the center of the back of the center of the front. This is always the case. If the straight y-axis is a line parallel to the large circle line (for example, bust, waist, or hip).

Gerber Accumark Machine

The different qualifications that are still in use are manual. Machine qualifications and computer qualifications that are still in use. The practice of clothing classification involves the effective production of accurate patterns. For this reason, it should always follow some basic rules. There are no hard and fast rules on how to generate the scale pattern set. The choice of the working method also depends on the accuracy and convenience of each person.

Gerber accumark compatible Plotter 72 inch

Note:
The graded pattern must include separate sizes transferred to cardboard for sewing references.

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