Creating a Person Basic Pattern for Dress Making

Developing garments involves different processes. Fit is the most important factor in the absolute acceptance or rejection of a garment. The fit should be original through subtleties in the pattern. Provides fullness where appropriate, accommodating body bulges in a flattering way. A good custom fit depends on drawing a pattern that incorporates the various shapes and proportions of the individual client. As the Industrial Revolution began, standardized patterns were critical to the success of ready-to-wear.

Plate making is an art. The art of manipulating and shaping a flat cloth to fit one or more curves of the human body. Pattern making is a bridge function between idea and manufacture. Sketches can turn into garments by interpreting the designed patterns as garment components.

The pattern is flat, while the body is not. The body of a person includes height, width, and depth. In this more or less cylindrical frame, there are a series of minor curves and bulges. Which relates to the patternmaker. We find darts in all pattern making. They turned the flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape that matched the bumps on the body.

Garments Manufacturing Books and Machines

Patternmakers create patterns from flat sketches or 2D fashion illustrations with measurements. Basic patterns are the basis for pattern making, assembly, and design. The primary pattern is the setting up position for a flat pattern layout. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort.

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Pattern creation method:

Pattern making involves three methods:

• Drawing
• Draping
• Flat paper pattern

Drafting:
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or precise measurements of the shape of a person, clothing, or body. The measurements for bust, waist, hips, etc. The loose allowance is marked on the paper and construction. We draw lines to complete the pattern. Drawings are used to create basic, basic, or design patterns.

Drape: It involves draping a piece of two-dimensional fabric around a shape. Making it conform to its shape and creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. It transferred this muslin to paper for the final pattern. Increases the convenience of movement and makes the garment comfortable to wear. The benefit of draping is that the designer can see the overall effect of the finished garment design. On the body shape before the garment is cut and sewn. However, it is too lavish and time-consuming than flat pattern making.

Creation of the flat style:
To develop a basic pattern that fits a person or body type, a sloper is adjusted. Sloper is the starting point for a flat pattern design. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort. We use five basic pattern pieces for womenswear. They feature a cinched front and rear pleated bodice. A basic neckline, one sleeve, and a fitted front and pleated back skirt. However, women’s styles often fluctuate as fashions change. They then manipulated these basic slopes to create fashion.

The basic sloper has no seam allowance and can manipulate into a variety of styles. It has no design interest, only the construction lines marked. The basic structure of the slider should be such that it is easy to enter settings. For a good pattern, accurate measurements are paramount.
We use the flat patterning method in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate.

Pattern making in today’s generations:
Today, making patterns using a computer has become a simple job. Today, there are different software on the market to meet the needs of manufacturers. The different software used are Gerber, Tukatech, Lectra, OptiTex, etc. This software makes the pattern master’s job easier. They make the pattern-making process cheaper and less time-consuming.

Pattern-making software allows you to enter measurements and draw patterns. The software draws patterns tailored to your measurements, eliminating a lot of trial and error in the sewing room.

Use this software to create patterns from 3D shapes in just a few steps. We collected individual measurements from 3D body scanners. It employed the dimensions to make a virtual 3D model of the human being's body. 3D to 2D software allows the user to define the surface of the garment for the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application unfolds and generates a flat 2D pattern in .dxf format.

Garment Pattern Making: Approval sample and adding shrinkage's

Hello, the Philippines!

The topic today is sample pattern, specifications grading and applying shrinkages allowance to meet required measurements.

AP (after pressing)

BP (Before pressing)

Before the manufacturer accepts the job order, there is an initial task to agreed upon before the production start. The product cost: In order to find the labor and material cost, the pattern department will do an estimate of fabric and other accessories using the middle size of the entire specs. When they both agreed on the price, it's time to prepare the pattern to make a counter sample approval for the buyer approval before productions.

Final specs against manufacturer specs;

The specs are telling the pattern maker to add 1.16% for the pattern length and 1.04% for the width of the pattern.

This means every horizontal direction or length of the pattern is required to add 1.16% and for vertical direction required a 1.04% addition.

What the pattern maker will do?

The pattern maker will do the computation choosing a middle size as a sample size from the entire specifications. From given specs the sizing is 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14. The pattern department will choose the middle size for these specs which either 6 or 8. Most of the time the buyer will advise to choose for size 8. The buyer will provide finished specs.

The maker or the manufacturer will do the fabric shrinkages test to find the fabric shrinkage amount. Since the fabric is non-washed, they will cut an 18inch. x 18inch. sample fabric. Submerged the fabric in clean water for a certain amount of time then dry and press. Make sure to record the fabric measurements before and after pressing. The fabric will now be measured to get the actual shrinkage result that will be relayed to the pattern maker to add the amount of shrinkage to the pattern sample.

When the pattern is ready it will be submitted to the marker department for consumption approval. If the marker meets the targeted consumption it will go to the cutting section, to sample sewing, finishing then to quality section, packing and finally sending it for buyer sample approval.

So the pattern maker will use a size 8 specs which will add the shrinkage allowance of 1.16% for length and 1.04% for width.

Once the sample is approved the buyer may or may not require a production sample or sizes sample. When everything is OK a production pattern or graded pattern will be the final task of the patten department to be work out.

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