Wednesday, August 10, 2022

Creating a Person Basic Pattern for Dress Making

Pattern Making

Developing garments involves different processes. Fit is the most important factor in the absolute acceptance or rejection of a garment. The fit should be original through subtleties in the pattern. Provides fullness where appropriate, accommodating body bulges in a flattering way. A good custom fit depends on drawing a pattern that incorporates the various shapes and proportions of the individual client. As the Industrial Revolution began, standardized patterns were critical to the success of ready-to-wear.

Plate making is an art. The art of manipulating and shaping a flat cloth to fit one or more curves of the human body. Pattern making is a bridge function between idea and manufacture. Sketches can turn into garments by interpreting the designed patterns as garment components.

The pattern is flat, while the body is not. The body of a person includes height, width, and depth. In this more or less cylindrical frame, there are a series of minor curves and bulges. Which relates to the patternmaker. We find darts in all pattern making. They turned the flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape that matched the bumps on the body.

Garments Manufacturing Books and Machines

Patternmakers create patterns from flat sketches or 2D fashion illustrations with measurements. Basic patterns are the basis for pattern making, assembly, and design. The primary pattern is the setting up position for a flat pattern layout. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort.

.

Pattern creation method:

Pattern making involves three methods:

  • Drawing
  • Draping
  • Flat paper pattern

Drafting:
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or precise measurements of the shape of a person, clothing, or body. The measurements for bust, waist, hips, etc. The loose allowance is marked on the paper and construction. We draw lines to complete the pattern. Drawings are used to create basic, basic, or design patterns.

Drape: It involves draping a piece of two-dimensional fabric around a shape. Making it conform to its shape and creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. It transferred this muslin to paper for the final pattern. Increases the convenience of movement and makes the garment comfortable to wear. The benefit of draping is that the designer can see the overall effect of the finished garment design. On the body shape before the garment is cut and sewn. However, it is too lavish and time-consuming than flat pattern making.

Creation of the flat style:
To develop a basic pattern that fits a person or body type, a sloper is adjusted. Sloper is the starting point for a flat pattern design. It’s a simple pattern that fits the body, movement, and comfort. We use five basic pattern pieces for womenswear. They feature a cinched front and rear pleated bodice. A basic neckline, one sleeve, and a fitted front and pleated back skirt. However, women’s styles often fluctuate as fashions change. They then manipulated these basic slopes to create fashion.

The basic sloper has no seam allowance and can manipulate into a variety of styles. It has no design interest, only the construction lines marked. The basic structure of the slider should be such that it is easy to enter settings. For a good pattern, accurate measurements are paramount.
We use the flat patterning method in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate.

Pattern making in today’s generations:
Today, making patterns using a computer has become a simple job. Today, there are different software on the market to meet the needs of manufacturers. The different software used are Gerber, Tukatech, Lectra, OptiTex, etc. This software makes the pattern master’s job easier. They make the pattern-making process cheaper and less time-consuming.

Pattern-making software allows you to enter measurements and draw patterns. The software draws patterns tailored to your measurements, eliminating a lot of trial and error in the sewing room.

Use this software to create patterns from 3D shapes in just a few steps. We collected individual measurements from 3D body scanners. It employed the dimensions to make a virtual 3D model of the human being's body. 3D to 2D software allows the user to define the surface of the garment for the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application unfolds and generates a flat 2D pattern in .dxf format.

Garment Pattern Making: Nested Pattern and X and Y Grading Applications

nested pattern
Nested Pattern:

Ito po ay ang pattern na pwede ng gamitin sa productions for marking, size sets sample o production counter sample. Ibig sabihin ang lahat na mga sizes ay graded na o pinaliit at pinalaki.

X and Y Grading Applications

Ito po ay aking ipapakita ang pag apply ng grading X and Y sa bawat punto na kailangan ang pagbabago ng padron. Nested dahil kung iyong makikita ay isang padron lamang ito subalit itoy magkakapatong. Kung iyong gagamitin ito sa marker making ito ay mag kakahiwalay na iyong oorderin sa paggawa ng marker. Kung manual ang marker na gagawin ito ay kailangang i trace ang mga sizes mula sa nested pattern. Kung sa computerized marker gagawa ka ng Marker model na iyong ihahanda ang mga datos na kakailanganin.

Halimbawa:

Marker width 60" 58" ang gagamiting width hindi kailangang sakto sa 60"
Target Marker Length 5 yards
Sizes; Small, Medium, Large
Model name; Men's Shirt 2020
Piece name: Men's Shirt Back
Piece Category: Back
Piece name: Men's Shirt Front
Piece Category: Front
Piece Description: Cut 1
Piece Description: Cut 2
Fabric: Main
                flip
Order: 1  0
Order: 1  1

Kailangan lahat na parte ng damit kailangang isama sa maga sizes na inorder. Kung ang fabric ay may combination, kailangan ibukod ang marker nito.

Ganoon din ang fusible na gagamitin hiwalay din ang marker.

Ito pong specs ang ating pagbabasihan ng grading sa pattern:



Friday, August 20, 2021

Garment Pattern Making: Production Pattern and Grading

Ang production pattern ay mga pattern na naglalaman ng ibat-ibang sizes, o liit at laki ng padron. Itoy pinaliliit o pinalalaki ayon sa ibat-ibang sukat o sizes. Halimbawa ang spec sizing ay S,M,L ang S ay ang maliit, ang M ang Gitna, at ang L ay ang pinakamalaki.

Halimbawa:

Design is Simple dress shirt Men's Double fold front placket.



FRONT SHIRT
PRODUCTION SPECS


BACK SHIRT

Pattern Parts;

1. Front Cut 2
2. Back Cut 1
3. Back yoke cut 2
4. Sleeve Cut 2
5. Sleeve cuff cut 2
6. Sleeve placket cut 2
7. Collar cut 2
8. Collar band cut 2
9. Front Pocket cut 1

Fusible (Patigas) Interlining

1. Front placket cut 2
2. Collar cut 2
3. collar band cut 2
4. Cuff cut 2



Sample Marker Size M

GRADING DIRECTIONS



X = Haba o Horizontal direction

Y = Width o Verical directions

-Center Back Lenght-Ang haba ay S=29, M=29.5, L=30 ang grading nito ay 0.5inch plus and minus. (-+.5)
-Kung ang pattern ay may putol (Halimbawa sa waistline may putol)ito ay -+0.25 sa taas at -+0.25 sa baba.
-Across Shoulder=S=17.75, M=18.5, L=19.25 ang grading nito ay -+0.75inch. o (-+0.375) Hati sa dalawa.
-Bust o chest ay S=38, M=41, L=44 ang grading nito 3inch. ay -+0.75inch. (-+0.75) Hati sa apat.
-Waist line S=28, M=40, L=42 ang grading nito ay 3inch. -+0.75inch. (-+0.75) Hati sa apat.
-Bottom Sweep ay S=37.5, M=40.5, L=43.5 ang grading nito ay 3inch 0.75inch. (0.75) Hati sa apat.
-Sleeve Width at Armhole ay S=15.75, M=16.5, L=17.25 ang grading nito ay 0.75inch. (0.375) Hati sa dalawa.
-Sleeve Length at CB ay S=32, M=33, L=34 ang grading nito ay -+1. Kung ang specs ng haba ay mula center back bale ibabawas yong grading sa acrross shoulder. Kaya magiging -+0.625.
-Sleeve Length at Shoulder ay S=24, M=24.625, L=25.25 ang grading nito ay -+.0625
-Sleeve Cuff opening ay S=8.25, M=8.625, L=9.00 ang grading nito ay -+0.375 kung hindi folded, 0.1875 (kung folded)
-Collar height at CB ay S=1.875, M=1.875, L=1.875 0 grading wala po.
-Collar Point ay S=3.125, M=3.125, L=3.125 wala pong Grading.
-Collar Spread ay S=4.5, M=4.5, L=4.5 wala pong Grading.
-Collar band height ay S=1.25, M=1.25, L=1.25 wala pong Grading.

Kung natapos mo itong basahin marahil may nakita kang mali, paki comments na lang po para ma update o maipaliwag kung bakit.

Sana Subscribe and share! kung iyong nagustuhan.

Garment Pattern Making: Digitizing Pattern Sample Size

Hi, the Philippines!

Our Topic Today is Digitizer!

The name of the experiment was to “Digitizing of a Pattern by using Gerber Scientific’s Digitizer and AccuMark Program”. The experiment comprised start of the AccuMark Software. Choice of the individual Storage Area in hard-drive (Style Number Ex. 123). Formulation of Rule Table, heading to operate Digitizing Table. The mouse with cross-hairs to change the Pattern in hard-form. To a Pattern in mild-form or “Digitized Pattern” in the AccuMark Software. Thus reducing analyze time and boosting adaptability.


Digitizing is a process of adding details of a pattern or slope into the computer.

Storage Area - Style number or the Design Name

Creation of Rule Table - Style number, Sizes, Grading rules

Digitizing Table

Mouse Cursor


Cursor: A tool to select function in a digitizing table.

A= point, B=assigned rule table, C-1=Notch, C-2=V notch

B-Rule table- Use to include a point that has grading (must create a rule table)

Rule Table;

Assign a number of graded points (Value)

1=.125
2.=.25
3.= 375
4.= .6275
5.= .75
6.= .875
7.= 1
8. and so on

Smoothing-A-D-8 (to lessen points in a curve line)

Non-smoothing=A-D-9 (straight line)

Paste your pattern on the table, Make sure the pattern grainline is aligned horizontally on the table.

Digitizing:
Select start piece press A
Select rule table press B
Go to pattern select the grainline and press starting line and the end line.
Grainline pressed A-A
Pressed Dilimeter * (Once done move cursor to an empty field and select the delimiter.)

Go to your Pattern pasted on the digitizer table



Make sure the pattern grainline is aligned horizontally on the table.

Place a number for every point that required grading.

Select start point 1
Pressed AB1
Next-Select point 2
Pressed AB2
Next-Select point 3
Pressed AB3
If curve line
Curve= Pressed A,A,A
If Notch required select either A-C-1 or A-C-2
Notch=A-C-1 (straight)
Notch=A-C-2 (V-notch)
Next-Select last point
Pressed A-B-last point
Select closed piece or mirrored piece
It there is an internal label (ex; Dart, embroidery, buttons point)
Pressed Internal Label Pressed A
Pressed Dilimiter *
Go to Internal lines A, A, A, B, number (if grading is required)

Select end input:Digitizing is over.

Proceed to next pattern:

1. Start piece Place the digitizer cursor over start piece in the digitizing menu and select “point” on the digitizing cursor.

2. Digitize Grain-line “point delimiter."

From left to right, place the cursor over the start and end of the grain-line using point to select points. Once done move cursor to an empty field and selecting delimiter.

3. Digitize Peremitter

Start digitizing the piece at a straight closed line or the mirror line. Use the point to start perimeter.

4. Close or Mirror piece.

Once all points have assigned, the last one should be a straight line from the first start points. After last point placed select close piece or mirror piece and selecting with the point.

5. Internal points

Points > points > then press delimiter (*)

After the piece is closed, you can add two internal lines. Internal line labels can assign by selecting the menu option. Once done entering all internal lines, you can select delimiter.

6. End input- after completing all perimeter lines and internals. Place the cursor over end input and select using point.

Rule Table

Creating a Rule Table
Numeric- Sizes by Numbers ex. 0,2,4,6,8,10,12
Alphanumeric- Sizes by letter ex. S, M, L, XL
1 Assign a Style number
2 Select Size name: Numeric or alphanumeric
3. Input smallest size
4. Next size breaks
5. Input base size
6. Type file name
7. Save

How to set up Default Parameter Tables
Default parameter tables will automatically copy all of the parameter tables from a specified storage area when you create new storage areas.

It will copy all rule tables, notch tables, laylimit, and annotation tables as well. This simplifies the setting up of future storage areas so your user environment is consistently the same.

READ:Garment Pattern Making: Approval sample and adding shrinkage's

Sana Subscribe and share! kung iyong nagustuhan.

Sunday, June 27, 2021

Basic sewing information for a newbie

Basic sewing



By learning a new hobby or trading is exciting. A popular craft skill is sewing. Not only can sewing be a useful skill, but it is also fun to learn and do. The word itself can have many meanings; from sewing skirts to designing and building your wardrobe. Many people think that sewing must be difficult to master. But to be honest, if you can look at needles and threading, you are likely to learn to sew. With the correct basic instructions and enough practice, almost anyone can learn to sew.

Now you have learned the basics of sewing as a hobby. You may wonder where to find the right course or instructions. A simple, popular way to learn to sew is to take a local course at a sewing machine or fabric shop. Many craft shops offer sewing courses from beginners to advanced levels. The cost of registering for a course is low, and sometimes you may get discounts on merchandise.

Another way to find a sewing course might be at your community college, which offers continuing education courses for adults. While learning new trades, you can meet new people who share your interests.

For most people, learning to sew and make useful household items is as a child of a mother, grandmother. Or other older members of the family. If your friends or family already know how to sew, please let them tell you where to start. They may provide you with a basic sewing course. They may be the person you call. You are stuck in a sewing project and cannot work the way the pattern should be.

As we live in a wonderful online world today. There is a lot of information on the Internet to learn how to sew. A simple search will bring you page after page of links to free and paid online sewing courses and tutorials. Don’t forget the most obvious sewing resource, books. Your local library has all the information you need to get started. Amazon.com can also provide you with old and new reference books about the art of sewing.

When you delve into the world of sewing, you notice that certain jargon is involved. Most handicrafts have their own language, and sewing is no exception. Once you understand mean certain words and phrases. Learning to read patterns and understand the sewing process will not be so difficult.

Your first sewing craft project should be a simple project. Which will take you step by step through learning one skill at a time. You can consider making a simple pillow for a sofa or bed. Or a skirt that is easy to sew for yourself or a friend. Many craft projects involve sewing, which is fun for you and also allows you to learn new sewing skills.

Many times, when we learn a new transaction, we are so excited about creation that we go out. Spend a lot of money to buy the largest and best gadgets and machines. However, in the case of sewing, this is unnecessary. All you need is a simple sewing machine and basic sewing supplies, such as patterns, fabric, tape measure, scissors, pins.

Remember, you have just started sewing, and you may find that this is not your favorite cup of tea. Once you know what you are doing, you will learn what you need. No need to be a top-notch sewing craftworker.

No matter how big your sewing goal is, you can learn to sew through practice. Sewing is not a difficult skill to perform, so go out and learn how. Think of all the wonderful things you can create with your own hands and a piece of cloth!

Photo by tata toto on Unsplash

Disclosure

FTC Disclosure: DIY receives financial compensation when the affiliate link(s) on this page are clicked on and a purchase is made.

Translate

Campaign

Patternmaking and Grading Patternmaking and Grading Gerber's AccuMark Pattern Design Software

For clothing design courses: pattern making, sorting, clothing development, and clothing production pattern creation. Sorting-using Gerber AccuMark pattern design, you can use the design software Gerber AccuMark pattern storage. Check all aspects of pattern making and classification. Focus on what is assigned to Job responsibilities, clothing styles, and classifiers. This article not only focuses on software commands. But also incorporates valuable information gained from the author’s extensive experience as an industry expert.

Price: US $87.77


Gerber Accumark Digitizer GTCO Calcomp Roll UP 36 x 48 Inch Digitizer Configured For PAD SYSTEM

Condition: Used: This Digitizer is For PAD SYSTEM PATTERN DESIGN SOFTWARE With This, you can digitize existing pattern pieces into your current PAD SYSTEM and edit, grading, marker making, plot You Can Digitize Any size Even bigger than Active Area which is 36 x 48 inch, you can digitize part portion, and combine into one large pieces. Tested And Working Just Fine Under PAD SYSTEM version 6, 7 Ready to work, preconfigured.

Price: US$1,599.00