How to Make Great Patterns for Easy Sewing

Creating sewing patterns is a great way to save money and time in the dressing room. You can use specific sizes to compose your custom corset. This will allow you to sew tops or dresses and make sure they fit. To make the pattern easier, please select a project that suits you and track it to make the pattern.

Take measurements. To create an accurate pattern that suits you. You will need to use a soft tape measure and record the following measurements:

• Women’s bust: Wrap the tape around the entire bust.
• Waist: Measure the narrowest part of the natural waist.
• Dress height: Stand upright on the wall and ask someone. Measure from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet.
• Men’s shirt collar: Wrap tape around the neck where the shirt collar is located.
• Hips: Wrap tape around the widest part of the hips.
• Length and width of the back measure the length from the neck to the waist. Measure the width along the widest part of the back.
• Chest in men’s or women’s clothing: Measure the widest part of the chest above the chest.
• Sleeve length: Hold the tape from shoulder to arm, as long as it fits the sleeve.
• Shoulder length: The distance from the neck to the edge of the shoulder.
• Upper arm width: Wrap the tape measure around the thickest part of the armpit near the armpit.

Draw the design sketch of the garment you want to make. Decide whether to make skirts, pants, or tops, and whether to have sleeves. Draw a rough design that comes to be visible in the garment. This will help you determine how to divide the garment into parts. So you know how many individual patterns you need to make.

• For example, if you want to make casual clothes. You may need a front body, a back body, and a belt pattern on the sleeve.

Place a sheet of flat paper and trace the length of the pattern. Place a large pattern or brown postcard paper on a flat work surface. Make sure that one side of the paper is straight. Place a ruler 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of the paper. Measure from that point down until the length of the clothes you want.

• For example, if you are 6 feet (1.8 cm) tall. Make your skirt 37 inches (94 cm) long to match the mini dress. Make the skirt 40 inches (101.6 cm) long and a knee dress, or 61 inches (154.9 cm).
• The straight edge of the paper will become the front center (CF) of the pattern. Mark your length along this edge.

Tip: To determine how long to wear a piece of clothing. Check the height measurement and determine how much of the clothing to cover. If you are making a shirt or top. Please check the length of your back and where you want the shirt to fall with your waist.

Draw horizontal lines to mark the shoulders, bust, waist, and hips. Place a ruler so it forms a 90-degree angle on top of the line drawing for the center front line. Draw this top horizontal line, this will be your shoulder line. Lower the ruler to make the bust level. Move the ruler down again to draw a horizontal waist. The bottom of the shirt is the hip line.

• Check your measurements to decide where to put the ruler on the shoulder path, bust position, waistline, and hip position.

Trace a line joining the size of the bust or chest, waist, and hips. Check your measurement and point out a point 1/4 of the measurement on the bustline. The same is true for the waist and hips. Next, use a pencil and a curved ruler. Draw a line to connect the points on the bust or chest line, waistline, and hip line.

• For example, your bust size is 40 inches (100 cm), divide it by 4 to get 10 inches (25 cm). Mark 10 inches (25 cm) from the edge of the bustline.
• This will make 1 edge of the central part of the pattern.

Draw the neckline and shoulders. Use a curved ruler to draw the cleavage from the top of the shoulder line to the centerline of the front. You can set the neckline as low or high according to your preference. Remember, the back neckline is higher than the front neckline. Leave room for the armholes and draw a curve from the shoulder down above the bustline.

• To make your shoulders sit down, tilt your shoulders downward.

Add seam allowance throughout the curved ends of the work. Use the ruler or the seam allowance ruler to trace a path parallel to the outline of the pattern. Add 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of margin.

• You can add 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of margin along the bottom line. This can make the hem of the clothes easier.
• For example, if your pattern block is 61 inches (154.9 cm) long. Make the seam allowance line 61 1⁄2 inch (156.2 cm) long.

If you want the dress or shirt to have sleeves, create a sleeve pattern. View your measurements of sleeve length and upper arm width and determine the style of clothing sleeves you want. Draw the sleeve pattern on the crease.

• For example, the length of the sleeve can be 5 inches (13 cm) long. You will use a 12-inch (30 cm) arm width measurement to determine the width of the sleeve.

Cut and paste the pattern fragments. Place another piece of pattern paper under the pattern you are tracking. Nail the paper together, use scissors to cut two layers along the seam allowance line. The bottom layer will become the back pattern. Be careful not to cut the curved neckline so you can adjust the front and back parts to your liking.

• For example, you want to cut the front neckline below and then keep the back neckline high.
• Mark each pattern you make so you can track them.

Tip: The number of patterns you need to make depends on the clothing you make. For example, if you want to make a simple shirt, you may only need 4 pattern pieces. Front 1, back 1, sleeve 2, neck collar 1. A wide flared skirt may require 6 identical parts, connected to a waist part.

Pattern Making Book

Make sure all seams have an allowance for sewing. Seams allowance required different allowances before fabric cutting.

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Garment Pattern Making: Approval sample and adding shrinkage's

Hello, the Philippines!

The topic today is sample pattern, specifications grading and applying shrinkages allowance to meet required measurements.

AP (after pressing)

BP (Before pressing)

Before the manufacturer accepts the job order, there is an initial task to agreed upon before the production start. The product cost: In order to find the labor and material cost, the pattern department will do an estimate of fabric and other accessories using the middle size of the entire specs. When they both agreed on the price, it's time to prepare the pattern to make a counter sample approval for the buyer approval before productions.

Final specs against manufacturer specs;

The specs are telling the pattern maker to add 1.16% for the pattern length and 1.04% for the width of the pattern.

This means every horizontal direction or length of the pattern is required to add 1.16% and for vertical direction required a 1.04% addition.

What the pattern maker will do?

The pattern maker will do the computation choosing a middle size as a sample size from the entire specifications. From given specs the sizing is 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14. The pattern department will choose the middle size for these specs which either 6 or 8. Most of the time the buyer will advise to choose for size 8. The buyer will provide finished specs.

The maker or the manufacturer will do the fabric shrinkages test to find the fabric shrinkage amount. Since the fabric is non-washed, they will cut an 18inch. x 18inch. sample fabric. Submerged the fabric in clean water for a certain amount of time then dry and press. Make sure to record the fabric measurements before and after pressing. The fabric will now be measured to get the actual shrinkage result that will be relayed to the pattern maker to add the amount of shrinkage to the pattern sample.

When the pattern is ready it will be submitted to the marker department for consumption approval. If the marker meets the targeted consumption it will go to the cutting section, to sample sewing, finishing then to quality section, packing and finally sending it for buyer sample approval.

So the pattern maker will use a size 8 specs which will add the shrinkage allowance of 1.16% for length and 1.04% for width.

Once the sample is approved the buyer may or may not require a production sample or sizes sample. When everything is OK a production pattern or graded pattern will be the final task of the patten department to be work out.

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Garment Pattern Making: Mga Gamit na Kakailanganin

Hello, the Philippines!

Papaano ka dapat magsimula sa paggawa ng padron para sa damit na gagamitin?

Ano- ano ang mga important na gamit sa paggawa nito?

Una kailangan mayroon kang cutting table na semi slide ang itaas. Malinis ang iyong lugar, tahimik, walang gaanong istorbo.

Kung manual - ang paggawa mo dapat ihanda ang gunting, papel, lapis, eraser, tape measure (medida), cardboard (para sa finish pattern), at ang sukat ng damit galing sa iyong kostumer.

Kung sa computerized pattern making - Accumark Gerber machine set, Monitor, digitizer, grading rule, design at specification (specs.)

Mga puntos (points of measurements) na iyong susukatin, Men shirt (short sleeve) back length, across the shoulder, bust, armhole, waistline, shirt bottom, neck circumference, collar point, collar height, collar band height, sleeve length, sleeve opening.

Example:
Tailoring style; Block Pattern Men shirt short sleeve

Gumuhit ng horizontal line para sa back length measurement, Sa taas ng horizontal line gumuhit ng vertical line connected sa top point ng horizontal line. Pakatandaan: ang horizontal na linya ay ang iyong reference line o defualt line para sa sukat ng katawan ng padron. Dito gagamit ka ng pag hahati hati,

Katawang sukat:
Ang horizontal line ay iyong center line sa pagsukat, Dito e assume mo na ang center line ay folded ang papel. Halimbawa ang shoulder ay 18 1/4", ang sukat mo mula sa center line ay 9 1/8" hati sa dalawa. Bust o chest 42" hati sa apat kaya 10 1/2" kung may waistline na sukat ganon din ang paraan. Dahil walang sukat na waistline deretso lang ang yari nito. Kaya ang bottom sweep o laylayan ng polo ay 42" din paghinati sa apat bale 10 1/2" din. Ang kabuoang haba ng damit ay dina kailangang paghatiin.

Sleeve ng Polo; Short sleeve lenght 9", Opening 8", armhole 20 1/4"
Parehong paraan na kagaya ng katawang sukat, Guguhit ng horizontal at vertical line. Sukatin ang haba na 9". Sa opening hatiin ang 8" kaya magiging 4" armhole na kabuoan 20 1/4" kasama na ang shape o hugis ng manggas. Gagamit ka dito ng french curve. Kung sanay ka na di na kailangan. Folded lang ang finish ng sleeve at bottom sweep ay 1".

Collar and Collar band:
Ganoon din po gamit ang center line at vertical line para sa pag sukat nito ang shape o hugis ay depende na sa stilo ng collar.

Kailangang Piraso:
Tatabas ng isa para top collar (ibabaw) at isa naman sa under collar (ilalim), itoy depende sa stilo ng kwelyo. Kung simple lang pwede ng cut two ang collar.
Katawan;
Front Kung simple Cut 2
Front kung magkaiba cut 1 leftfront at cut 1 rightfront
Back cut 1
Back yoke cut 2

Accessory:
Collar Accessory:
Patigas sa kuwelyo at collar band (fusing)
Collar bone 2

Body accessory;
Front buttons 6
Front Fusing 2

Hanggang sa susunod:

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Related Topic

READ: Garment Pattern Making: Mga Gamit at Paraan

Garment Pattern Making: Mga Gamit at Paraan

Hello, the Philippines!

Ang topic po natin ngayon ay "Pattern Making: Tools and procedures"

Ano-ano po ba ang mga gamit para gumawa ng padron para gamitin sa pag tabas ng tela?

May alam po ako na apat na klaseng paggawa ng padron;

Una- Block Pattern- Ito po ang nakasanayan ko sa paggawa ng padron na block pattern. Ito po ang kadalasan ginagamit sa computer pattern making, grading and marking.

GAMIT: for Computerized; Gerber o Lectra, Pattern paper, digitizer, pattern plotter, grading monitor, and marking monitor.

GAMIT: for Manual; Pattern paper, Triangle square, grading rule or standard ruler, tape measure, scissors, eraser, pencil, sizes measurement o Specifications.

Pangalawa- Pattern making direct to the fabric- Ito po ay madalas ginagamit sa tailoring o dressmaking shop.

GAMIT; Gunting, tailored chalk, tailored square, standard ruler, tape measure, at individual na sukat ng customer.

Pangatlo- Pattern Making by Pinning o paggamit ng aspeli- Ito po ay paggawa ng damit na derekta sa pagtabas sa tela gamit lamang ang gunting, tapemeasure, aspeli, at sukat ng customer.

Pang-apat-Gamit ang Maniquin; Ito po ay ibang paraan sa paggawa ng padron. Pwede kang gumamit ng papel o mumurahing tela. Ang papel o tela ay iyong ipapatong sa maniquin, ititrace ang mga pagpuputulan ng dugtong o seams, iyong guguhitan ang lahat ng dugtungan tapos iyong kokopyahin sa mesa ang na trace na bahagi ng dugtungam, Halimbawa; Front opening, armhole, back lenght, neck circumperence, sleeve lenght, cuff opening, collar at iba pa.

Pwede po kayong mag search sa internet ng gusto ninyong paraan na angkop sa inyong kakayahan. Ang importate lamang ay magustuhan ng iyong kustumer ang kabuuang resulta na damit. Dahil kung hindi magustuhan ng iyong kleyente sigurado akong hindi ka na babalikan.

Dahil po sa hindi ako sanay sa huling dalawa na paraan ng paggawa ng damit. Ang una at pangalawa ang nais kong ibahagi sa inyo.

Ito po ay:

Manual pattern making, grading, and marking

Computerized Pattern Making with Gerber

Dahil po sa may katagalan na hindi ako gumagamit ng accumark gerber machine ang iba pong advance feature ay maaring hindi ko na maibahagi. Muli mag search uli sa internet o sa kompanya ng computerized machine supplier.

Hanggang sa susunod:

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Related Topic

READ:Garment Pattern Making: Mga Gamit at Paraan

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Garment pattern making, grading, cutting, sewing

Marahil sa panahong ito ang paggawa na damit ay wala ng saysay sa siyudad dahil sa maunlad na teknolohiya. Sa ngayon ang paggawa ng damit ay computerized na di tulad noong araw na itoy manual lamang. Dahil po sa akoy may karanasan sa paggawa ng damit at padron, pagtahi, pag tabas, naisipan kung ibahagi ang aking konting nalalaman sa abot ng aking makakaya.

Dahil po sa ang gawaing ito ay matagal ko ng iniwan dahil sa akoy reterado na, sisikapin ko pong ibahagi ang kaunti kung nalalaman sa larangang ito.

Ang inaasahan kung tatangkilik ng sariling araling ito as sa probinsya na hindi pa gaanong abot ang advance na teknolohiya, tulad ng isang nayon sa probinsya. Kung ikaw ay may hilig sa paggawa ng damit panlalaki o pambabae marahil itoy para saiyo, ikaw man ay nakatira sa isang siyudad o sa isang nayon sa probinsiya.

Nauunawaan ko po ang pinagkaiba ng tailoring o dressmaking kaysa sa paggawa ng damit na maramihan katulad ng isang pabrika.

 by shankar s.

Tailoring o Dressmaking (Shop o Boutique) - Dito individual ang iyong paruyano, ang sukat ay ikaw ang kukuha sa iyong kustomer kasama na kung anong desinyo o style. May isang master cutter na tagagawa ng padron, magtatabas sa tela at magtatahi. Minsan ang mananahi siya na ang magtatapos hanggang mabuo ang damit pati na finishing.

by Provincial Archives of Alberta

Garment Production (Factory Process)- Dito mahirap ang gawain dahil lahat ng aspeto dapat naayon sa sukat at desinyo, Maramihan ang order dito kaya dapat nasa tamang tolerance kung may mali man.
Ang lokal factory ay maysariling taga desinyo ng damit, samantalang kung outsource ng kompanya ang order, ito ay may kasamang specs, tela,at accessoriya, original sample. Bago maaprove ang order kailangang magaya ng kumpaniya ang padalang sample at masunod ang boung quality ng paggawa. Kapag itoy natapos na kailangang ipadala sa mayari para sa kanilang commento o pagsangayon bago gumawa ng maramihan piraso.

Dahil sa factory maramihan ang order, nararapat lamang na marami silang mangagawa at departamento. Ito ay ang mga sumosunod:

Departamento ng Desinyo - tagagawa ng desinyo o idea ng damit at pagbibigay ng kailangang sukat o sizes.
Departamento ng quality - sila ang nag aaproved kung nasunod ang mga kinakailangan sa isang damit, Dito dalawa ang taga control ng quality, isa ang representante ng kompaniya at ang isa ay ang representante ng nagpapagawa. Kailangang maaprobahan ng pinal ang damit bago magumpisa ng maramihang sizes ayon sa ibinigay na specs ng mayari o kustomer.

Departamento ng Pattern making, marking, at cutting - Sila ang gagawa ng unang pattern para gawan ng sample para paaprobahan. Minsan maykasama ng pattern kaya final measurement na lang at pagdagdag ng shrinkage allowance sa pattern. Kung maaprove ang unang sample pweding humingi pa ang mayari ng sizes sample bago mag gawa ng maramihan damit na ibat ibang sizes.

Sa aking kumento: Para sa akin, parehong mabigat na pasanin anuman ang iyong tunay na kaalaman sa paggawa ng damit. Maging itoy sa Shop o sa pabrica. Subalit sa aking naging karanasan mas pipiliin ko ang maglingkod sa pabrika kaysa sa shop o botique. Sa shop limitado ang iyong kaalaman at mga benipesyo. Samantalang sa pabrika marami kang malalaman tungkol sa paggawa ng damit sa ibat ibang antas o departamento. May magandang benipisyo at sigurado ang iyong sahod.

Kung ikaw ang papipiliin saan ka kaya gustong lumugar sa gawaing ito?

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Related Topic

READ: Garment Pattern Making: Mga Gamit na Kakailanganin