Sewing Overview for Beginners

There are many advantages to learning to sew. It is relaxing, creative, and fun. Clothes can repair damages and breaks will save you money. Once you develop your sewing skills, you can do more work and do sewing projects for others.

So, what do beginners need to know before taking sewing? There are a few things to consider here.

Learn to sew
Learning to sew can seem daunting, especially if you have or never picked up a sewing needle. But no matter how much sewing experience you have, there are countless ways to start or continue your sewing education.

By taking courses is a quick way to learn the art of sewing and handicrafts. There may be a community college or community center that offers sewing courses in your area. The elementary class meets once a week, up to six weeks. It focuses on teaching basic terminology and skills to lay a solid foundation for you. If you are lucky, you can take one of these courses for free. But even if you have to pay a small fee, what you learn will be worth the money.

Books can also help you improve your sewing skills. If you never sewed before, then learning specific techniques from the book can be challenging. But books can teach you different techniques, important definitions, different sewing types. The range of fabrics to choose from, and so on.

Online video tutorials are another great learning tool. You will not only hear someone explain the technology, but you can also see the practical application of the technology. For sewing, being able to see what they do will differ.

Beginners choose a sewing machine
Whether you are a beginner, a novice, or a sewing professional, choosing a new sewing machine is very exciting. It’s hard not to succumb to the temptation to buy the most fashionable and feature-rich machine.

However, for novices, buying a skilled sewing machine is not the best idea. Instead, you need a machine that is easy to learn and easy to use.

Therefore, choose a basic and simple high-quality model.

After I had a sewing machine at home, I learned all about it. Read the cover of the user manual. Find information about your specific model online. Understand the name, function, and purpose of every part and part from the bobbin to the presser foot. The more you know about your sewing machine, the faster you will learn to use it.

Consider consumables
Sewing is a hobby that involves a lot of supplies and equipment. Knowing the supplies you need and the purpose of each tool is almost as important as knowing your sewing machine.

One of the first things to do is to assemble the sewing kit by hand. Yes, you plan to do most of the sewing work on the sewing machine. However, many things still need to be sewn by hand. In addition, whether you are enjoying a relaxing afternoon at home or enduring boring waiting in the doctor’s office. Hand sewing is a relaxing way to pass the time.

READ: Learning how to sew can enrich your life

So, what do you need for your handmade sewing kit? First, you need manual sewing needles of various shapes and sizes. The threader will also come in handy because trying to thread the needle without the needle is a frustrating job. To protect your fingers from needle stick injuries, also have one or two thimbles.

Other supplies should include in a manual sewing kit. Includes scissors, pins, fabric markers, seam openers, tape measures, and of course thread.
Sewing room

For many people, the sewing room is a relaxing paradise, where they can sew. However, having a sewing room has another purpose. You don’t want your supplies to be scattered in the house. You want a place to store all your supplies so that it organized and easy to find.

Do you have a special sewing room in your house? It can be a guest room that has never been used, a loft that has transformed into a living space. A storage room that can be cleaned (with windows).

If you cannot use a particular room for sewing, you can still request the use of a limited room corner. It can be a garage, basement, or home office.

For novices, entering the sewing world seems overwhelming. There are so many things to learn! But don’t learn everything at once, but focus on learning the basics. And believe that the more you do, the more you will learn.

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Learning how to sew can enrich your life

Have you ever thought about learning to sew? Do you have friends or family members who know how to sew, do you want to learn too? By knowing the basics of sewing can help you get started. The first thing you need is a sewing machine or at least you can use a sewing machine.

You don’t own a sewing machine and you buy one within your budget; I suggest you buy your own. You may think that you don’t use a sewing machine often? But once you sew, it will surprise you by how often you use it.

If your budget is small, consider using a second-hand sewing machine provided by a local sewing machine retailer. The staff can help you find a machine that suits your sewing level and price range. For example, compared to buying a new machine at the same price. You can find a second-hand machine of better quality for $100.00.

Choose a basic item, without zippers, buttons, snaps, etc. The type of sewing pattern you choose should not possess too many details. Keep it simple so you don’t get frustrated at the end of the sewing project.

I recommend looking for great model companies available online. They will provide good tips for beginners on sewers and patterns to suit your abilities. You can even look for patterns that can make in just “one hour”.

In addition, choose patterns that require easy-to-use fabrics. The apron will be a good entry project and will play a role when you’re done.

Here are some model companies to help you get started.

• McCall sewing pattern
• Simple sewing pattern

Now you must choose your fabric. As I mentioned before, choose a simple pattern and your fabric should also match. The back of the sewing pattern will provide fabric suggestions for the type of project you are doing.

I recommend using fabrics like woven cotton or cotton blends, which are moderate and easy to use. Before you finish some projects, I will guide you away from knitting.

Note: Knitted fabrics are easy to stretch and are used to make T-shirts and casual pants. Okay, you own a sewing machine, patterns, and fabrics for your project.

These are the extras needed to complete the project.

• Color matching thread (buy excellent quality, it will not break when sewing)
• Sharp scissors (I emphasize sharpness)
• Tailor’s sewing belt (easy to find in sewing shops and fabric shops)
• Straight pins (buy the ones with outstanding quality and colored heads so that you can see them)
• Hand-stitched. (Optional, but better to own it)
• Any concepts you need for your project (you will find this shortlist on the back of the pattern)

When you learn to sew and improve your skills, find sewing book or two to help you master sewing techniques.

Here are some suggestions:

• A sewing book
• Sewing 101. A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing

I possess two books. They are worth buying. Both books found in any bookstore or online.

I recommend subscribing to “Threads Magazine”, these articles are very useful, and the information will never be out of date. Also, please consider looking for beginner sewing courses in your community. They set their business up for sewing courses to help you get started. Maybe a one-on-one experience is best for you, rather than going alone.

READ: Sewing Overview for Beginners

Now is the time to start your project. Open your pattern and read the instructions to assemble your project. Before cutting anything, take a moment to learn everything about the project. The instructions will tell you which parts need to cut and how to place the pattern part on the fabric.

Take it easy! Don’t worry, this is not a game. If you relax, you will get more fun and satisfaction from the completed sewing project. Hope this helps you to sew tasks.

Photo by Alexander Andrews on Unsplash

Pattern marking cost accounting calculations for clothing

The clothing cost calculation in the clothing manufacturing process is one of the most complicated processes. There are many factors that affect the price of a piece of clothing. It includes the cost of purchasing raw materials, dyeing, weaving, printing, transportation costs, packaging, bank fees, general expenses. The cost of decorations and accessories used. Top management of merchants and companies takes part to determine clothing costs.

The apparel industry uses different techniques to determine costs. However, the following aspects should also have to consider. The type of fabric finish used, clothing testing, logistics costs, organizational benefits. The value-added services (printing, embroidery, washing, application). Other details will calculate the cost of the garment, such as the unit of measurement. The number of orders, and the type of dyeing and finishing agents used.

Fabric consume cost
Once the sample approved and it developed the pattern, the number of fabrics required per unit can calculate. The cost of fabrics accounts for 60% to 70% of the total cost of making clothing. While determining the cost, it also determines the fiber content, the spinning process used. The GSM fabric (g/m2), and the shrinkage rate and waste rate in the fabric. They measure consume knitted garments in kilograms, while they measured consume woven garments in yards. Mathematics and marking planning systems, two popular systems for calculating the amount of fabric required for each piece of clothing.

The mathematical system provides a rough estimate for the manufacturer and is used in the sampling phase of production. By measuring the length and width of each garment pattern. The fabric consumption used to produce a certain style of the garment can calculate. Mark planning by using software such as computer-aided design (CAD) and computer-aided manufacturing (CAM).

The knitting or weaving cost
For knitwear, the gram square meters (GSM) of the fabric plays a crucial role in the cost. The type and configuration of machines, fabrics, and mixtures used to weave clothing fabrics will affect the manufacturing price. For knitted garments, the number of ends per inch (EPI) should consider. The greater the length of the beam, the lower the cost of weaving. Therefore, the size of the bundle can increase or decrease the cost of manufacturing clothes. The type of fabric such as twill, satin, and plain weave. The type of machine used for a particular garment affects the cost of the fabric.

The dyeing cost
By using specific types of dyes and specific shades can affect the cost of dyeing clothing. For example, lighter-colored fabrics are cheaper to dye, and VAT dyes are more expensive than reagents. The cost of dyeing specific colors such as red and cyan, higher than basic colors such as black and white.

Jewelry and accessories costs
Besides the fabrics, trims, and accessories used to make the entire garment. Such as sewing threads, trims, zippers, buttons, elastic bands, care labels, and cardboard also increase costs. The thread used in the garment depends on the type of stitches used on the garment. There are several ways to measure the number of threads used. Sometimes, the number of yarns used is calculated during the sampling phase itself. Measure the weight of the yarn cone before and after the quantity used. Calculate the difference to identify the quantity consumed. The size, shape, and materials used in decorations (such as zippers, buttons, and labels). It also adds up the cost of making the garment.

Value-added services
Special processes performed by the manufacturer, such as washing, printing, and embroidery commissioned by a specific buyer. Wet chemicals include bleaching, softening, and neutralization processes. The unique and high-level finishes of the fabric will increase the cost of the finished garment.

Combine the above costs to determine the cost of clothing in the organization. However, each company has its own method of calculating the cost of garments. The following are the different cost accounting methods used in the textile industry:

• Job cost calculation: Costing technology evaluates the cost of each job performed for a specific order. Charges the job cost to determine the cost of making clothing.
• Batch cost: This method is like work cost. The only difference is to consider the batch cost of the garment being produced.
• Final cost accounting: This method is used for large contracts, where contract tables for specific contracts and individual contracts are maintained.
• Process cost: It helps to determine the cost of clothing involving many processes.
• Calculation of departmental cost: For large manufacturers, the cost of producing clothing by the department, a suitable calculation method.

Therefore, clothing cost accounting is an important tool to reduce costs. Avoid waste and optimize the use of raw materials and resources. Using appropriate methods to calculate the cost of clothing. Help buyers improve the quality of the style, and it can also manufacture the process clearer.

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The procedures in paper pattern grading

By grading a well-known technique in the apparel manufacturing industry. This technique is to increase or decrease a piece of a size. Begin one size so that all content maintains its original shape. This classification network of the block mode is also the basic network of components developed from the block model.

Assign label clothing styles involves many techniques, but they all have a common principle: the basic level.

We can divide these rating systems into the following two broad systems:

• Track translation system or two-dimensional level.
• Preliminary rating system or three-dimensional rating.

Two-dimensional system:
Two-dimensional sorting systems can only sort patterns by perimeter and height. Therefore, their application is limited to loss or semi-covered garments because it keeps standard size blanks throughout the entire size range. This system is most suitable for very loose clothing (such as shirts or T-shirts). With a limited range (such as 4-6-8-10-12-14), and it may be possible to use a two-dimensional system to classify them.

Three-dimensional system:
This system not only increases the size of the pattern but also increases or decreases conceal the following areas:

• Bust to shoulder
• Hip to waist
• Elbow to wrist

Three-dimensional grading is the best system. Three-dimensional grading should use as much as possible. By grading tight or tight clothing and clothing with sizes expanded from 8 to 18. The most important area of clothing is the amount of restraint from the bust to the shoulders. Using a three-dimensional classification system requires a good understanding of pattern cutting.

Types of clothing: There are two major categories, they are:

• Tight or tight clothing.
• Loose or semi-covered clothes.

The tighter the garment, the more important it is to choose a sophisticated garment classification system. That matches the undressing of the garment. If the fit of the clothes is looser, the value of adjusting the clothes suppression will reduce. So it is more recommended to use a two-dimensional system.

Several sizes: This may depend on whether the clothes are tight or loose. But refers to the situation that the company or company only provides a few sizes. The complexity of the classification system, and so on.

Fabric type: To classify, we can divide special fabrics into two conventional types:

• With fabric shrinkage
• Fabric doesn’t shrink

Elastic fabrics are more adjustable and can conform to the contours or contours of the body, so they can use. An inelastic piece of cloth has the opposite effect and must control and balanced throughout the size range.

Classification technology:

• Draft or multi-size (nested) level.
• A single-size track or slope.

Draft level: they use this term when the pattern returns to its original block shape. Or when increments apply to the actual pattern draft. This causes the entire size range to overlap with each other and is described by the terms “nested” or “tracking.” Select or track the various parts of the pattern of each size on the card. The draft level can be two-dimensional or three-dimensional. Three-dimensional slope considered being the determination method of the applied slope increment.

The slope of the track: This term will be used when the slope increment applies to each segment of the pattern. By moving the segments of the basic pattern together with the preset track. Make the pattern piece by piece to change its size. The system is two-dimensional, but it is difficult to adapt to a three-dimensional system.

The following are the steps for manual authentication:

• Prepare the specification
• Qualifications of the model
• Check the scale size of the pattern
• Complete the pattern.

The tools required for classification are:

• Table
• Parallel rules
• Puncher
• Pencil
• Proportion Divisor
• French curve
• Armhole curve
• Tailor’s Square
• Grooving machine
• Results rules
• Tape measure
• Colored pencils or pens

Size range-The size system is a predetermined size range, the maximum difference in circumference between each size. The size change is plus or minus 2 cm, so the logical size range will be 4 cm. An interval of less than 4 cm will cause the most used size in this range.

Size table: Two types of size tables are used.

• Body size: This type of chart provides the body size of each size. These sizes the basis for constructing patterns as needed.
• Clothing size: This chart provides detailed information about the finished size. The specifications of each size and used for pattern classification. Size is combine measurements, and a symbol which is a common code between clothing manufacturers and consumers represents each combination.

“X” and “Y” axis: The x-axis of the body and the y-axis of the body and skirt. It will be a line parallel to the center of the back of the center of the front. This is always the case. If the straight y-axis is a line parallel to the large circle line (for example, bust, waist, or hip).

Gerber Accumark Machine

The different qualifications that are still in use are manual. Machine qualifications and computer qualifications that are still in use. The practice of clothing classification involves the effective production of accurate patterns. For this reason, it should always follow some basic rules. There are no hard and fast rules on how to generate the scale pattern set. The choice of the working method also depends on the accuracy and convenience of each person.

Gerber accumark compatible Plotter 72 inch

Note:
The graded pattern must include separate sizes transferred to cardboard for sewing references.

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Basics of pattern creation

Create clothing involves different processes. Fit is the most important factor leading to the absolute acceptance or rejection of clothing. It should design the body with the original pattern, to keep the subtleties of the pattern. Provide fullness in the position and accommodate the uplift of the body. Good tailoring suitability depends on combining patterns of individual customers with different shapes and proportions. With the start of the industrial revolution, standardized patterns critical to the success of ready-made garments.

Pattern making is an art. The art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to fit one more curve of the human figure. Pattern making is the bridge function between design and production. We can transform a sketch into a garment through a pattern, explain the design in the shape of the garment component.

When the body is not flat, the pattern is flat. The body has height, width, and depth. In this cylindrical frame, there are many minor curves and protrusions, which interest the cartographer. Darts are the basis of all modes. They turned a flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape that matched the bumps on the body.

They make patterns from flat sketches with measured values or two-dimensional fashion illustrations. The basic pattern is the basis for creating, adjusting, and designing patterns. The basic pattern is the starting point of the graphic pattern design. This is a simple pattern that fits the body to provide movement and comfort.

Pattern creation method

It involved three methods in pattern creation:

• Drafting
• Drape
• Flat paper pattern

The drafting method:

It involves measurement results from a sizing system or precise measurement of people, clothing, or body shape. The measurement values of the chest, waist, buttocks. Distribute relief is all marked on paper, and they draw construction lines to complete the pattern. Drawing is used to create basic, basic, or design patterns.

Dangle:

It involves placing a two-dimensional fabric around a shape and adapting it to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. The muslin was transferred to paper and used as the final pattern. Added sports facilities to make clothes comfortable to wear. The advantage of drape is that the designer can see the overall effect of the finished clothes. The design on the shape of the human body before cutting and sewing the clothes. However, it is more expensive and time-consuming compared to creating flat patterns.

Manufacture flat patterns:

It involves developing a basic pattern that can adjust to fit the shape of the person or body. The slope is the starting point of the graphic design. This is a simple pattern that fits the body to provide movement and comfort. They used five basic patterns in women’s clothing. They include a fitted corset at the front, a pleated back body at the back. A basic neckline, sleeves, and a pleated skirt that fit the front and back. However, with frequent changes in fashion, women’s styles will change. They then manipulated these basic models to create fashion.

Basic swimsuits have no seam allowance, so you can manipulate various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines marked on it. The basic structure of the slope should be easy to input settings. For good pattern making, accurate measurement is essential.

They used the flat pattern method in the ready-to-wear market, because of its speed and accuracy.

Pattern Making in Today’s World

Nowadays, it has become very easy to use a computer to create patterns. Nowadays, a variety of software is available on the market to meet the needs of manufacturers. The different software used is Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech, Optitex, etc. The software facilitates the work of employers. They make the pattern creation process cheaper and more timesaving.

Pattern creation software allows you to input measurement values and design patterns. It tailors these software sketch styles for your measurements, thus eliminating many cutting trials and errors in the sewing room.

By using this software, you can make patterns from 3D shapes in just a few steps. We can get personal measurement values from the 3D body scanner. These measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual’s body. 3D to 2D software allows users to define the surface of clothes using a 3D human body model. After defining the surface of the clothes, the application will unfold and generate a flat 2D pattern in .dxf format.

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